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Corroding Boiler Exterior Housing

labancabrera
labancabrera Member Posts: 1
in Domestic Hot Water

I live in NY and have an oil fired Weil McLain p-468V-W 151k BTU boiler manufactured in 1990. There must have been a steady leak for quite sometime as the metal housing of the boiler has completely corroded. I thought it was only a surface issue until I poked it and it crumbled. I now have a section about 4”x5” where the metal is gone and the insulation is exposed.

I have a separate propane fired hot water heater that probably should be replaced. Additionally they share an unlined brick chimney which I know should be lined.

This boiler has served me well and is simple to maintain. In the past I’ve replaced the burner, ignitor and a number of other parts on the system. My father in law maintained commercial boilers in NYC and taught me enough to be dangerous 😃but unfortunately is no longer alive. So, despite working in IT, I’d like to stick with a relatively simple system that isn’t overly reliant on technology.


So my questions are as follows:

  1. Do I have to replace the boiler simply because the exterior has corroded?
  2. If so, how urgently? Can I get through this heating season?
  3. What suggestions/recommendations do you have? (Please be specific with product recommendations)

Thank you all for your input.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,558

    • No, just because the outer sheet metal is rusted it doesn't need replacement. Is it leaking at all? If not, I wouldn't worry about it much. But maybe I shouldn't talk — my truck is pretty badly rusted but runs fine…

    If it's running well, you can certainly get through the season unless something else goes wrong.

    Can't give recommendations without knowing how much boiler is really needed — for hot water, a heat loss of the house and some idea as the amount of radiation, or for steam, the EDR of the radiators.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,249

    We need pictures.

    HVACNUTSuperTech
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,108

    you might put a CO, carbon monoxide detector near that room, for piece of mind.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,249
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1819652#Comment_1819652

    A Low Level co detector.

  • Revenant
    Revenant Member Posts: 25
    edited November 12

    Sorry for the loss of your father in law. He lives on in what he taught you.

    You should have both a boiler that is safe, and a low level CO monitor.

    Here is a discussion which has links for most (if not all) the low level CO monitors:

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/196322/links-for-low-level-co-monitors-available-retail

    Many pros from NY here. Maybe someone who worked with your FIL.

    https://www.heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/state/NY/

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,754

    It is possible that the jacket piece is still available from wm, if it isn't , it is very likely you could cut a poece of sheet metal to patch it and screw it over the hole.

    It is very important that someone that knows what they are looking at takes a good look inside and makes sure the water didn't destroy something like the flue collector or the burners or burner box.

    labancabrera
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,239

    Some of the 68 Series jackets look like they got Leprosy after a standing water leak. If the leak is repaired, then it's probably just cosmetics. As long as it's not leaking behind the insulation from the block itself.

    Do you have your father in-law's oil equipment to service the burner? Combustion analyzer, smoke gun, gauges, and other knick knacks. 😃

    labancabrera
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157

    The top of the WM 68, P68, 68 , and P68V boiler should be removed to inspect and clean (if needed) the boiler annually. That is the blue section in the illustration. I believe that is the piece of metal jacket you have the hole in.

    Screenshot 2024-11-12 at 6.04.58 PM.png

    If you want to use a wire brush and clean away all the rust until you get to good metal, then paint the boiler top cover with Rustoleum. That will protect the rest of the metal from corroding away. Then take a piece of sheet metal large enough to cober the rusted parts of the cover (all the way to the edge if needed) then paint that with the same color Rustoleum, then you will have a new looking boiler.

    You don't need to replace a whole boiler just because you has a little rust on it. The is like jacking up the gas cap on your car then putting a replacement car under that cap, just because you got a little road dirt on the car.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-12-in-x-24-in-28-Gauge-Galvanized-Sheet-56020/100282523

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    labancabrera
  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,383

    Isn't venting an oil burner and LP water heater into the same chimney against code? I live and work in the Hudson Valley and I was taught that you can't do that.

    I work on a bunch of those boilers that are the same age. It's probably getting towards the end of its life expectancy but without pictures I don't want to make any assumptions about it.

  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,383

    Looking into this further, it appears like it's not against code in NY but just not a good idea because it will destroy the chimney.

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