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Logamatic Alternative

ironwill
ironwill Member Posts: 2
in Oil Heating

My Logamatic is giving me the outside air sensor error message. Air sensor measures good and tried a different sensor just to be sure so I know the problem is in the Logamatic. I have it on a Buderus G115 3/WS boiler witha Riello F3 burner. It's a simple system with just 2 zones and no hot water. So before I spend almost $ on another Logamatic I'm questioning whether there might be a better alternative for for me. I'm very interested in opnions on some other controls. Thanks in advance for input, Will

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,556

    Before you fire the parts cannon — check all your wiring and connectors.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,239

    The Buderus distributors by me offer the Hydrostat 3250 Plus. If you're lucky, you can get one in Buderus Blue. You'll also need to change the well. Actually, make sure you specify what boiler you have because well insertion depth is critical. If the system already has an external LWCO, you don't need the Hydrostat Electrowell, but redundancy never hurt anyone.

    EdTheHeaterManSuperTech
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,514

    I’ve used Tekmar 256’s and they work fine.

    If you get rid of the 2107, you’ll be going from the boiler operating on a heating curve to on demand with ODR. That means that the boiler will be cold starting rather than warm. That may save some energy, but cause some increase in maintenance.

    Also, make sure your chimney is clean and properly lined.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1817971#Comment_1817971

    You will need an aquastat relay if you go along with that Tekmar. The Logomatic I believe is the boilers high limit, circulator relay and burner relay along with a place to attach the thermostat on single zone systems (or the zone device's end switch on multi zone systems). I always liked the L7224U for that function. The Hydrostat with the built in LWCO is another popular option, however with the existing temperature probe well, the LWCO feature will be wasted (inoperable) unless you change the well adaptor. Not a requirement in my opinion.

    The KISS method would be to get a L7224U and see how you fair with that. If the fuel bill is affordable with that option then you are done. If you want to go with ODR then you can add the Tekmer 256 next year.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,239
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1817978#Comment_1817978

    I'm not positive, because its been forever since I've installed one, but I believe the well must be replaced regardless if a different control is replacing the 2107.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1818000#Comment_1818000

    i kind'a remember something like that . But the L7224U probe is slightly smaller that the L8148 bulb. I have never tried to go from 2107 to the L7224U. My Buderus was originally installed with the Honeywell L8124. It has the L7224U now.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,382

    I have customers who have changed the 2107 to both the L7224U and the Hydrostat 3250. Neither boiler has any problems and both run perfectly. The boiler with the Hydrostat is power vented with a field controls unit, the one with the L7224U has a stainless steel chimney. Both are on high temperature heating systems with indirect water heaters and don't utilize outdoor reset.

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • ironwill
    ironwill Member Posts: 2

    Thanks for the input folks. First post suggested I check my connections and yes that's the first thing I did. Took the ohm readings right at the connections at the boiler so I know the sensor was giving the Logamatic the correct info. I definitely have some food for thought from your suggestions. Fortunately the boiler is running at the default heating curve the 2107 defaults to for a bad sensor. Thanks again guys !

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,239
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1818162#Comment_1818162

    If you put the Logomatic into manual mode, and there's an indirect water heater, turn the left dial down to 140° max. And be careful with the domestic hot.

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