Bracing my HP
I have just purchased a new PUZ-HA30NKA Hyper heat 2 1/2 t
I am concerned that it might need some means of securing it to the house in case of earthquake or someone inadvertantly pushing it over
Has anyone got some pics on how this can be done DIY
It sits on a fiber type pad,and is bolted to this,but seems tippy to me
Thank you d
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Cover-Tech in New Brunswick, Canada sells a snow cover. Nicely made, but fundamentally just a pipe or conduit frame with a tarp for a roof and mesh for the sides. You could make your own frame and secure the HP to the frame with ratchet straps. Secure the frame to the house or ground. That would keep the HP from tipping.
https://www.cover-tech.com/heat-pump-covers
(click on these images for larger versions)
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They are tippy, especially with a lightweight pad like those plastic or fiberglass ones. If it's located like the one @WMno57 shows above, it probably isn't going to be an issue, but if the wind can hit it full on without the house to block it, you might want to swap that light pad out for a concrete pad (poured in place or premade) or maybe a few pavers & reanchor.
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Thank you. I appreciate these replies !!
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a couple of PT 4x4’s under the ground surface and 12” lag bolts.
I’ve seen 1/8” stainless steel cables between the house and the cabinet
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I have heard of the 1/8 cables. Do you know how they were attached to the HP body?
I think that this would be the way to go,as my unit is near 5 ft tall, and does not pass my anal need to be extra fussy.
If you can give me a clear idea of where these attach to the top of the unit,woohoo I am ready to secure it from tip over dark
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Check out the garage door parts and chain/cable accessories at your favorite hardware, farm, or big box store. They have fittings such as eyelets and thimbles you can swage or clamp to cable. Swaging can be a simple as smashing with a hammer.
You might be able to attach a couple L shaped brackets to the cabinet of the HP with some screws or bolts. Be careful where you drill the holes. Maybe use some existing holes or screws in the cabinet?
The install manual for the HP may have some suggestions.
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Thank you, I will look into your suggestions dark
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The install manual for the HP may have some suggestions.
It does, and that should normally be our first stop.
It wants 120mm (nominal five inches) concrete. Not those light pads for little $500 machines.
(However it is not clear how "wide" the concrete must be- but does say "As long as possible" and "Set deep in ground.")
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Very helpful indeed. Here I thought I was over thinking this issue.
I will refer to my install manual,and call the installer out on this. 😁
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Two 3/8" straight Sammy Super screws into the house.
Two 3/8" all thread rods from house to unit upper corners with an extra inch of length.
4 fender washers, and 4 nuts to secure.
Never fall over in either direction.
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Thank you. I am unable to find these screws in Canada. What or how do I attach to upper corners with the rod to pump. Some form of bracket?
Not so technical here so do not want to fly at it without knowing how to
Might wait and see what the dealer says next week as his option.then bounce this off him.
I like the threaded rod idea if for nothing more than looks over cheap crap tin strapping
I welcome all input people dark
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Screws into the case must be carefully planned. A hole in the refrigerant system will make you very sad.
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I agree I will have the installer out here and ask for a re do of the pad in concrete,failing that they can take care of all the drilling and mounting of any braces
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@darkgohan asked: What or how do I attach to upper corners with the rod to pump. Some form of bracket?
One of the beauties of @JUGHNE solution is no bracket needed. Drill two 25/64 holes through the cabinet. Threaded rod then goes through the holes with a nut and fender washer on each side to secure the rod.
Tip: use a different size washer on each side to avoid a shearing force on the sheet metal of the cabinet.
I had not heard of those Sammy screws. Neat! Now I'm trying to think of a project where I can try them out.
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If the corners are too close to the AC coil, then small angles secured to the top cover.
The top covers are pretty secured to the unit.
Your HVAC/plumber person should be aware of this hardware.
The Sammy "Sidewinders" are very helpful for hanging steam piping and fine tuning the pitch without having to have the exact rod length.
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Seismic bracing has been required on larger commercial jobs for many years now. It is finding its way into the residential market. Look up Seismic bracing for HVAC equipment and you will get more than a few ideas.
Good Luck
Steve
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Thank you for more great options
My dealer is supposed to show sometime.
I am gong to see if I can convince him to remove the HP and pour a concrete pad??
As well I can bring up these great ideas here!!
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If it was mine I wouldn't want to remove it unless I had absolutely no choice.
Opening a system to atmosphere is never a good thing but is often unavoidable, so you do what you need to do and get it sealed back up. In your case I think it's very avoidable.
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
Not sure what you are saying here. Very avoidable,do you mean that I should at this point only look at bracing methods as have been suggested here? TY dark…
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Consider only methods that do not require evacuation and disconnecting the copper line sets.
There's plenty of options to anchor the unit without moving it much.
Keep the system sealed unless you have no choice.
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
Thank you for the clarification. Good advice ! I may have to connect with other installers to see what they normally do for bracing. Small town not much in choices,so it is nice to have all this feedback dark….
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There's no reason to remove it. Just lift it up a little & do the work underneath it.
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Dealer showed up,and agreed with my assessment of the shoddy install.
Has measured up for a stainless pump to wall bracket and will come by to install,and while here they will lift the unit and work on the pad.
Will take a pic once it is done and post. dark….
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The outdoor unit should be mounted ABOVE the estimated snow level for drainage during heat mode operation.
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Thanks for telling us about this. So many times we hear about the cases where the installer refuses to make corrections, it's encouraging to hear about those who will.
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I appreciate all of the good ideas dark
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