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Do I need more Main Vent?

Bodycount
Bodycount Member Posts: 39
edited February 2023 in Strictly Steam
Is there a specific time period of steam exiting a Gorton No. 1 before it closes? Obviously it is heat related and not time. But, if it’s taking longer & longer, is this the unit failing?

** vent is less than 1 year old. 

https://imgur.io/a/9hQTEvg

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,170
    No specific time period. It will close when steam (or water) gets to it. So, if it's taking longer than it used to, for some reason steam is taking longer to get to it. There are so many possibilities...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Bodycount
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,695
    to add to Jamie's good reply, you can see if it's something up with the vent by using your hand to see when steam gets to the vent (by temperature, don't burn yourself), and see if the vent closes about then.

    In my experience this vent closes very fast when steam warms it. If it isn't closing you will see, or feel vapor escape from it and you'll know it probably needs to be replaced.
    NJ Steam Homeowner. See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
    Bodycount
  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 246
    edited February 2023
    That vent looks like it is leaking steam to me. It wasn't installed too high above the main, so water hammer may have wrecked it or rust debris may have clogged it to keep it from closing. I would replace the existing coupling with a new cast iron union to a nipple capped with the the existing coupling and a new No.1 (if you determine the vent isn't just clogged). Wash all of the new cast iron pieces with dish detergent, thoroughly rise and dry before installation to remove oils. Installing a nipple to the coupling with a union will allow you to use a taller nipple than otherwise possible because of being able to unscrew the union and take the top half of the new assembly off compared to the clear overhead typically needed to change the vent by screwing it in or out.

    A taller assembly with a new nipple providing additional elevation may be able to protect the replacement vent from water hammer or rust debris damage.

    Before replacing the No.1, try taking it off and flushing it with soapy water to see if debris clears out. If there's some debris and it isn't back to rattling normally, check to see if the float pin is still seated on the bimetallic strip through the bottom of the vent. If it is still seated and the pin is in place on the strip, try soaking the vent in vinegar overnight and then flushing it again.
    Bodycount
  • Bodycount
    Bodycount Member Posts: 39
    I added a 1/2” Union and 9” nipple with a fresh Gorton No.1 vent. Closed immediately. 


    hopefully this will keep the vent clear of whatever is clogging it.  

    I contacted Gorton for replacements. 



  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 246
    I forgot to ask, but what are your pressure settings? If your pressure is set to high or you have a clogged pressure limit/controller it can be rough on vents.

    The new piping looks great and should provide better protection for the Gorton No.1 from water hammer & debris.