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Quick question about shifting riser piping

Dooverdixon
Dooverdixon Member Posts: 40
So I need to move 2 radiators that are first a d only rads on the 1.25" riser.  The riser comes straight up and goes into a 90 degree valve connected to the radiator.  

Due to some wall changes I need to move them about a foot.

I see having 2 options. Easy...and harder

1)  swap the 1.25 valve for an elbow add in a foot of pipe and a new straight valve and be done.  (Will this create issues with condensate having a foot long section of 1.25 horizontal?? (Obviously sloped a bit).

2)  come off the runout (1.5" pipe) with a 90 degree elbow.  Add my 1 foot extension perpendicular to existing runout in 1.5".  Then reducing elbow to 1.25 riser and into 90 valve.

Option 2 sucks because the pipe is old a d who knows what's going to happen.  But I dont want to do it twice and I don't want to introduce a ton of gurgles and hisses into this system.

I guess a 3rd option would be using a reducing elbow and reducer to valve above the existing riser...this sounds ugly though.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 19,147
    There's a joker in the first option, too (though either option will probably work OK). The joker is that new straight valve. That will also require a new spud out of the radiator... and I'd much rather be fussing with old pipe than trying to get a spud out of a radiator. So if it were mine to do, I'd pick number 2.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,144
    I would pick #2 as well. But if the branch of the tee is 1 1/2" keep it 1 1/2" up to the valve. Either use a 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 reducing coupling with a short nipple under the valve or use a 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 90 in the riser just before it goes through the floor
  • Dooverdixon
    Dooverdixon Member Posts: 40
    @Jamie Hall

    I was planning on replacing the spud anyway because the current valve stopped closing and is pretty haggard.  Is there any tips for this job lol.  And does this change your recommendation. Hah???

    @EBEBRATT-Ed

    Thank you!  For what Its worth the way its currently piped is 1.5 run out to 90 elbow reduce to 1.25 riser to valve.  It prob not worth converting to 1.5 on the riser eh?
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 5,737
    You need to know the EDR of the radiators to know what the pipe can handle, right?
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,144
    If It's been hooked up with 1 1/4 with no issues you will be fine.


    As far as removing the stub you have a few choices. My first choice is to cut the union nut off so you can get a good bite on it with a pipe wrench. Jamb something inside the spud (smaller pipe nipple etc) to keep the spud from collapsing.

    They make spud wrenches that go inside the spud and grab on to the two little tangs inside the spud nipple but they sometimes break off.

    I have also used a piece of steel square stock and using a grinder on the steel shape it to fit inside the spud and lock on to the tangs
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,564
    Why do you want to close the valve to the rad?—NBC