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Amtrol Boilermate leak

NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
My Brother in law has a 7 year old Boilermate, that is leaking at the top. It is a CH-41Z. All 4 pipes enter or exit from the top. It is leaking on the domestic hot water outlet, at the threaded brass piece (adapter) that comes through the top flange, It just started, a very small, but persistent leak. The brass adapter has a big nut that i would assume tightens the adapter to the top flange of the heater. It is 1 11/16" sized, but after cutting the outlet pipe and spinning the T&P assembly out, and putting a socket on it, it could not be tightened or loosened. Possibly assembled at the factory. Any suggestions on what else could be done? Seems too early to replace the unit.


  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Posts: 2,850Member
    Can you post some pics?
  • hot_rodhot_rod Posts: 12,574Member
    If I were betting man....
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • SteamheadSteamhead Posts: 13,573Member
    Time to replace it.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    "Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
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  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    I will post a picture, tonight, when I'm over at his house. The brass adapter has fine threads on the outside, which the large nut uses. And, it has IPS threads for the T&P nipple, internally. The leak is on the outside, of this brass adapter, not on the inside, or above, dripping down.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,830Member
    Is there an o ring in that adapter?
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    STEVEusaPA I'm thinking there probably is an o ring, or some kind of gasket or washer, on the underside of the top flange (around each brass adapter, there are 4 adapters). But to take that top flange off, seems like a project, and possibly means taking the coil out of the tank, as well? I'm hoping someone here has experience and a recommendation. Would an Amtrol factory rep have a comment or recommendation?
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,830Member
    Can you post a close up pic of the leak, showing top of tank and about 12” aboveboard?
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    If I did it right, there should be 3 pics.
  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Posts: 1,880Member
    No pictures.
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
  • ZmanZman Posts: 5,531Member
    edited July 2019
    It looks like it is a threaded reducing bushing that is factory installed. If it has threads, you should be able to remove it.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    You see the couplings, because I spun that nipple right out of there, and put a big socket, with a 3/4” drive ratchet, but seemingly could not tighten or loosen it. Of course, it was hard to hold back the whole heater without anyone helping me. But, maybe I tightened it a bit, because although still leaking some, it is not making it to the floor, anymore. That might be the best that can be done without disassembling the whole top of the heater. If they can get 6 months or a year more out of it, then they will have the money to replace it. I’ve encouraged them to contact Amtrol, perhaps Amtrol will recognize it as a factory defect, and provide a little help although it is 7 years old.
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    I wonder if I had been able to loosen the nut, would the brass adapter fall into the tank?!
  • Intplm.Intplm. Posts: 1,047Member
    Good advice to have them contact Amtrol. With what you have done so far has probably bought them the time that they need.
    (the leak might even heal)
    As to loosening the nut and worrying about the brass adapter falling into the tank? I wouldn't do any of that until you talk with amtrol.
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Posts: 8Member
    Thanks. I'm not really equipped to take on a complete disassembly. All I did try was to spin out the T&P assembly, then tried to tighten the outside nut, then re-teflon and dope the assembly, and finally soldering 2 couplings (carefully, with wet rags around the propress fittings!), and turn it back on.
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