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Amtrol Boilermate leak

NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
My Brother in law has a 7 year old Boilermate, that is leaking at the top. It is a CH-41Z. All 4 pipes enter or exit from the top. It is leaking on the domestic hot water outlet, at the threaded brass piece (adapter) that comes through the top flange, It just started, a very small, but persistent leak. The brass adapter has a big nut that i would assume tightens the adapter to the top flange of the heater. It is 1 11/16" sized, but after cutting the outlet pipe and spinning the T&P assembly out, and putting a socket on it, it could not be tightened or loosened. Possibly assembled at the factory. Any suggestions on what else could be done? Seems too early to replace the unit.


  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,278
    Can you post some pics?
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,204
    If I were betting man....
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • SteamheadSteamhead Member Posts: 13,771
    Time to replace it.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    "Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
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  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    I will post a picture, tonight, when I'm over at his house. The brass adapter has fine threads on the outside, which the large nut uses. And, it has IPS threads for the T&P nipple, internally. The leak is on the outside, of this brass adapter, not on the inside, or above, dripping down.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,113
    Is there an o ring in that adapter?
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    STEVEusaPA I'm thinking there probably is an o ring, or some kind of gasket or washer, on the underside of the top flange (around each brass adapter, there are 4 adapters). But to take that top flange off, seems like a project, and possibly means taking the coil out of the tank, as well? I'm hoping someone here has experience and a recommendation. Would an Amtrol factory rep have a comment or recommendation?
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,113
    Can you post a close up pic of the leak, showing top of tank and about 12” aboveboard?
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    If I did it right, there should be 3 pics.
  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 1,964
    No pictures.
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
  • ZmanZman Member Posts: 5,748
    edited July 2019
    It looks like it is a threaded reducing bushing that is factory installed. If it has threads, you should be able to remove it.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    You see the couplings, because I spun that nipple right out of there, and put a big socket, with a 3/4” drive ratchet, but seemingly could not tighten or loosen it. Of course, it was hard to hold back the whole heater without anyone helping me. But, maybe I tightened it a bit, because although still leaking some, it is not making it to the floor, anymore. That might be the best that can be done without disassembling the whole top of the heater. If they can get 6 months or a year more out of it, then they will have the money to replace it. I’ve encouraged them to contact Amtrol, perhaps Amtrol will recognize it as a factory defect, and provide a little help although it is 7 years old.
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    I wonder if I had been able to loosen the nut, would the brass adapter fall into the tank?!
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,135
    Good advice to have them contact Amtrol. With what you have done so far has probably bought them the time that they need.
    (the leak might even heal)
    As to loosening the nut and worrying about the brass adapter falling into the tank? I wouldn't do any of that until you talk with amtrol.
  • NealLeBaronNealLeBaron Member Posts: 8
    Thanks. I'm not really equipped to take on a complete disassembly. All I did try was to spin out the T&P assembly, then tried to tighten the outside nut, then re-teflon and dope the assembly, and finally soldering 2 couplings (carefully, with wet rags around the propress fittings!), and turn it back on.
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