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Connecting Sonoff device.

Kingpin
Kingpin Member Posts: 10
Hi. I have a question. I have a Riello 40 F5 burner. I would like to get an answer how to connect a Sonoff 16A 3500w Wifi device to see if my burner is actually working. This device has an app to monitor energy usage so i would know when the burner pump is running. I would like to find out if i can possibly install/connect this device to my burner pump wire so when pump kicks in it shows the usage so i know it is up and running not failed. Please if possible let me know how can i connect this device to the electrical circuit of the burner. Thanks.

https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-pow.html

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
    edited January 2019
    You could wire it up with a RIB (relay). However, you will only know if the burner is calling to run, not if it locked out.
    You could also wire it (differently) to the line voltage alarm contact with the relay, but then you'll only know if the burner locked out, not how long it ran.
    steve
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10
    edited January 2019
    Thank you Steve. I only want to know if the oil burner is running properly and didn't lockout. Thats what i want to see. Also a diagram how to connect the device would be perfect if you have one. You know if you can make it easy for me so i can connect it correctly. If you can sketch one for me for a Riello 40 f5.
    Thanks again.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,042
    edited January 2019
    Some component with a temp sensor such as the old school stack control used?
    IIRC, contacts closed after some time delay.
    It knew when you had actual burner firing. :)
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10
    edited January 2019
    Thanks for your reply Jughne. I also have nest thermostats. 3 of them. They show when the burner is firing. But the problem with nest if the burner fails to run/locksout it still shows as the burner is running. Doesn't give me a notification or anything. I want to know right away if the pump locksout so i can take action. Also i am waiting on Tigerloop ultra so it doesn't lose prime again. My tank is outside and 7 feet above the boiler.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,042
    If you are only concerned about lockout, then Steve's alarm contact would tell you that.
    I assume the Nest would let you know the temp was dropping.
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10
    Ohh ok thanks i will check it out. Yes i can see the temp drop but not on time. :)
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10
    > @STEVEusaPA said:
    > You could wire it up with a RIB (relay). However, you will only know if the burner is calling to run, not if it locked out.
    > You could also wire it (differently) to the line voltage alarm contact with the relay, but then you'll only know if the burner locked out, not how long it ran.

    Hi Steve, quick question. Would i be able to connect this Sonoff device directly to B2 terminal on the boiler electric control box, so when the burner fires it starts registering the voltage?
    Thanks.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,160
    First -- you really shouldn't be losing prime if the tank is above the boiler. A Tiger Loop may help -- some -- but it's a bandaid fix in this instance. Figure out why the system lost prime, and fix the problem.

    On the gadget. You really want to know when the boiler isn't running when it's supposed to be. Not just when it isn't running --- or is. Is that correct? I presume that whiz-bang responds to a voltage present or absent. What voltage(s) does it respond to? 120? 24? Something else? I notice that it is Russian -- so 240 maybe? In any event, I would not connect it directly to your existing system. Rather, I would use a pair of relays. Relay 1 will have normally open contacts, and be connected in parallel with the thermostat. If the thermostat calls for heat, the coil should pull in and close the contacts. Then Relay 2 is normally closed, and the contacts are in series with the contacts on Relay 1. It is a 120 volt relay, and the coil is connected in parallel with the burner's blower motor. When the blower is getting power, it's coil will pull in, and there will be no output. If the blower is not getting power, then there will be a circuit through Relay 1 and Relay 2 and whatever power source you are using for the whiz-bang and the whiz-bang and back -- and the whiz-bang should give you a status signal indicating that the thermostat is calling, but the blower isn't running.

    This will not help if the boiler cycles on some signal, such as pressure or temperature. You would need a third relay to account for that, if desired.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10

    First -- you really shouldn't be losing prime if the tank is above the boiler. A Tiger Loop may help -- some -- but it's a bandaid fix in this instance. Figure out why the system lost prime, and fix the problem.

    On the gadget. You really want to know when the boiler isn't running when it's supposed to be. Not just when it isn't running --- or is. Is that correct? I presume that whiz-bang responds to a voltage present or absent. What voltage(s) does it respond to? 120? 24? Something else? I notice that it is Russian -- so 240 maybe? In any event, I would not connect it directly to your existing system. Rather, I would use a pair of relays. Relay 1 will have normally open contacts, and be connected in parallel with the thermostat. If the thermostat calls for heat, the coil should pull in and close the contacts. Then Relay 2 is normally closed, and the contacts are in series with the contacts on Relay 1. It is a 120 volt relay, and the coil is connected in parallel with the burner's blower motor. When the blower is getting power, it's coil will pull in, and there will be no output. If the blower is not getting power, then there will be a circuit through Relay 1 and Relay 2 and whatever power source you are using for the whiz-bang and the whiz-bang and back -- and the whiz-bang should give you a status signal indicating that the thermostat is calling, but the blower isn't running.

    This will not help if the boiler cycles on some signal, such as pressure or temperature. You would need a third relay to account for that, if desired.

    Thank you for taking your time and explaining all this. I appreciate it. I will get some relays and install them. Don't know why th riello losing its prime, every 4 months or so its doing it. Brand new lines, tank and riello f5 40.8 feet above my basement outside bottom fed. I just added some anti gelling agent from home dep. Well see since 3 days it hasn't lost the prime.
    For the Sonoff device its from ebay. Its not russian, i just found a picture from the net. Im from New york, long island. :)
    Thanks again.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,366
    I would suggest you get one of the pros from this site that works LI to check your system out.

    An alarm is only telling you when it's broke; it's not correcting anything.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Kingpin
    Kingpin Member Posts: 10
    > @Ironman said:
    > I would suggest you get one of the pros from this site that works LI to check your system out.
    >
    > An alarm is only telling you when it's broke; it's not correcting anything.

    Thanks Ironman. :smile: i know. I am just trying to take a precaution. I am trying to set this up so if it ever locksout again i will know right away rather than hours later. I am going to get it checked out thanks. Its running fine now.