Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

B&G Circulating Pump

Options
jdenney
jdenney Member Posts: 3
edited December 2018 in Radiant Heating
My circulating pump started making a loud vibrating noise around 3am. I have discovered it dripping from the Bearing assembly and realize that it will need to be replaced. Is there a temporary fix that I can do so that we can have heat until the part comes in? The earliest that I can get a part in will be December 28th and with 4 children and below 40° weather on the Upper Cumberland Pleateau in Tennessee we need to keep the house heated. Any and all help is much appreciated.

Comments

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,834
    Options
    I see a valve below the circulator, is there also one above?
    Cancel the bearing assembly, go down to the local big box and pick up a Taco 007 F5 without the IFC (internal flow check).
    New nuts and bolts.
    Taco and others offer flanges, nuts and bolts sets, or a flange with an isolation valve for the inlet side if none is there now.
    Is there a purge station above the circ?
    As if you've got nothing better to do a few days before Christmas.
    Gaskets come with the circ.

    Can you post a pic from farther back?
    If there is currently no valve above the circulator and no way to isolate the boiler from the loop, the circ can still be replaced without dropping the whole system, as you would need to do of you were to replace the B.A.

    Step up to a wet rotor circ.
    Replace the B.A. and next week the coupling breaks. After that, the motor takes a dump. Not worth it.
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,230
    Options
    HVACNUT said:

    pick up a Taco 007 F5 without the IFC (internal flow check).

    Just out of curiosity, why specify "without the IFC"? I

    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Consulting & Troubleshooting
    Heating in NYC or NJ.
    Classes
    jdenney
  • Jellis
    Jellis Member Posts: 228
    Options
    If you buy a pump with an IFC and you already have a check in the system you run the risk of not being able to overcome both checks and move water throughout the system. you may be only able to find the pumps with the IFC, in that case you can remove it with some pliars quite easily, just break it out.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,834
    Options
    > @JohnNY said:
    > pick up a Taco 007 F5 without the IFC (internal flow check).
    >
    >
    >
    > Just out of curiosity, why specify "without the IFC"? I

    Looks to be an older system, circ on the return. A sure bet theres a flo valve on the supply.
    Probably has a steel expansion tank too.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,834
    edited December 2018
    Options
    > @Jellis said:
    >
    in that case you can remove it with some pliars quite easily, just break it out.

    I like to pop em out with a flat head and see how much hang time I can get. Like popping beer caps with a Bic.
    Yes I'm 51 and still act like I'm 15.
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,230
    Options
    I like a check valve in my pump. I think the fact that water can flow passively in either direction through a pump is somewhat inherently problematic as it is. But your point, @HVACNUT, is well taken.
    Also, the B&G 100 curve most closely compares to Taco's 0010 if I'm not mistaken. But I guess you'd be far less likely to find that model in a big box store.
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Consulting & Troubleshooting
    Heating in NYC or NJ.
    Classes
  • jdenney
    jdenney Member Posts: 3
    edited December 2018
    Options
    > @HVACNUT said:
    > I see a valve below the circulator, is there also one above?
    > Cancel the bearing assembly, go down to the local big box and pick up a Taco 007 F5 without the IFC (internal flow check).
    > New nuts and bolts.
    > Taco and others offer flanges, nuts and bolts sets, or a flange with an isolation valve for the inlet side if none is there now.
    > Is there a purge station above the circ?
    > As if you've got nothing better to do a few days before Christmas.
    > Gaskets come with the circ.
    >
    > Can you post a pic from farther back?
    > If there is currently no valve above the circulator and no way to isolate the boiler from the loop, the circ can still be replaced without dropping the whole system, as you would need to do of you were to replace the B.A.
    >
    > Step up to a wet rotor circ.
    > Replace the B.A. and next week the coupling breaks. After that, the motor takes a dump. Not worth it.
    >
    >

    I have no idea what you said. Here are some pictures from father back. This is an older system and getting anything without an IFC sounds like a bad idea.
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
    Options
    Your present circ does not have an IFC. If you have verified that there is no flow check in the loop, there is no harm in installing one.
    It looks like you have a copper fin style boiler which is very sensitive to low flow conditions. I agree with JohnnyNY that a 010 would be a better choice. A local supply house should have a 010 or other comparable product in stock.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • jdenney
    jdenney Member Posts: 3
    Options
    Turns out that the coupler in the bearing assembly is broken. I took the bearing assembly apart and everything is in working order. I will order the new coupler if my local supply store doesn't have one. Thanks guys for the recommendations.
    HVACNUT
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,061
    Options
    If you are dripping water out of the bearing/seal assembly the coupling will only buy you some time.
    If after using it and water is dripping, I would plan on the larger replacement pump. IMO
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,834
    Options
    > @jdenney said:
    > Turns out that the coupler in the bearing assembly is broken. I took the bearing assembly apart and everything is in working order. I will order the new coupler if my local supply store doesn't have one. Thanks guys for the recommendations.

    I don't understand.
    You could've been done by now.
    Your replacing the coupling.
    The new B.A. wont arrive until the 28th so you have to open up again.
    Why no wet rotor pump?

    The O-ring held after you pulled the assembly? They usually swell up.

Categories