Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Control voltage question

kredmore
kredmore Member Posts: 53
I have a basic control electrical question, difficulty in finding the answer.

I have an old hyrdonic boiler than runs fine with an old aquastat (White Rodgers 11b18-101) that connects into a Baso 850 (Manual Reset Pilot Switch). Then into the gas valve.

Is the current aquastat 24V? I can't tell from the doc:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/White%20Rodgers%20-%2011B18-101%20-%20Product%20Overview.pdf

Can't fine anything on the Baso 850, but see a replacement as L62AA-5C, this seems say 125V
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/L62AA-5C%20-%20Product%20Overview.pdf

I know the gas valve is 24V, as it's marked right on the valve.

I'm thinking of replacing the aquastat with a smart temp control (Tekmar, Aquastat, etc.).

Thanks for the help.

Comments

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 2,821
    Is it in the high voltage side of things, or on the low voltage side of the transformer? If it's rated for high voltage (120-240), it can be used in either location, but if the contacts are only rated for low voltage (24) it can't be used to switch the high side.
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,730
    The current aqua stat is a switch, it does not consume or require power to operate it. And if your going to goose up the boiler controls why not replace the gas valve as well with at minimum standing pilot or better a spark ignition and get rid of the Baso all together.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Good suggestion on the gas valve - will think about that. And I guess that's obvious on the current aquastat as just a switch - makes sense, thank you.

    The Baso is interesting. I would expect it to be 24V as the gas valve is 24V as well, and I think everything is on the low side after the transformer.

    But the Baso cover says 120V, 240V, etc. no mention of 24V. Here's a picture:
    https://supplyhouse.com/Baso-Gas-Products-L62AA-5C-SPST-Manual-Reset-Pilot-Switch-w-Non-100-Shutoff

    That is what is confusing me. But if I understand correctly, 24V will work work fine, again as a switch?
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,730
    Yes that will work. I would strongly recommend a new gas valve which may be only slightly more then that Baso. 100% shut off is preferred.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 9,394
    What @ratio & @unclejohn said is good advise
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Thank you all for the advice and clarifying the details.

    On the potential gas valve replacement, what are the benefits, considering the current gas valve, regulator, and Pilot switch seem to be working just fine?
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Just wanted to update for future readers.

    From my research, the main benefit is the pilot integration/shutoff, versus the current separate pilot with manual shutoff.

  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,474
    How about some information on the gas valve and maybe a picture it is not always a good idea to change something if it is not broken. That being said you may be able to recontrol the entire system. I can give you some ideas on that if you are interested.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Thank you - would welcome suggestions. Pictures attached.


  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,474
    You can replace the pilot safety control, gas valve, gas regulater and install a combination Honeywell gas valve VR8300A-4516 or VR8300A - 4508 both 3/4" x 3/4" gas valves. That valve can pick up the pilot tubing and eliminate the tubing connection from the gas shut off and thermocouple from BASO control all of which will originate at the new Honeywell gas valve. Then also tie in the control wiring to the gas valve.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Thanks.

    Right, the combo valve handles it all. But other than pilot shut-off, I can't see any benefits of swapping out working parts (not to mention the $100 and labor). That's what I was inquiring about last week.
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,730
    You have a refrigerant seal cap on a compression fitting on a gas line. You most likely have a lose connection at your pilot gas tubing connection as can be seen in the third photo were the thermocouple is dark and discolored. If not a lose connection then a more serious problem. You have a solenoid type gas valve thats at least 40 years old. Spend the money and up grade your heating system. Would you load up the family and go on vacation with bald tires on the car?
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 2,821
    The Schrader cap is on the vent line for the regulator. I'm guessing needed a coupling but only had a tee.

    In any case, it's seen better days. It's one thing to say "Hasn't failed in the last few years, won't fail tomorrow", but quite another to say "hasn't failed in the last four decades..."

  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Appreciate the additional info and insight. I'll look to replace the valve.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    edited January 2018
    Is there a spark ignition control suggestion?

    I've done my research and agree with Honeywell VR8300A - 4508 as a direct replacement, but curious to check out direct ignition. Difficult to weave through the Honeywell products. Guessing VR8345M-4302? Then I need Pilot Control and Ignitor too?
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,474
    What you need is a Honeywell Y8610 universal replacement kit which includes wiring and pilot adapter as a complete kit.
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,474
    By the way that is a Intermittent ignition system (Y8610U). It is not authorized to use a DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) or HSI {Hot Surface Ignition) systems to replace pilot
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    Got it - thank you again for the help.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    I installed the Aquatstat - that is working fine. I installed the new gas valve (Honeywell VR8300A-4508), all hooked up, and ready to light the pilot. I'm familiar with how they work. But the gas control knob will not depress to light the pilot. It rotates fine, but will not depress. I've wiggled and pressed firmly, but still nothing. I'm stuck, any help would be appreciated.
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 2,821
    You're turning it to "pilot", right? Some times the gates that prevent it from being pressed down are a little narrow (or the indicator isn't quite clear), try slowly rotating the valve from off towards the pilot position while GENTLY pressing down.
  • kredmore
    kredmore Member Posts: 53
    yes, I was trying all those combinations.

    This is resolved. To light the pilot, you don't press the gas control knob, you press the red reset button (while gas control knob is in Pilot position).

    Manual says:
    "2. Turn the gas control knob counterclockwise to
    PILOT. Push down and hold the gas control knob while
    lighting the pilot flame.
    3. Hold the gas control knob down about one minute, then
    release."

    This is incorrect and where I was getting confused.

    Product Data and Specifications says on the first page:
    "Separate reset button must be held down to permit gas flow
    while lighting pilot, can be pushed down only in PILOT position. "
    But even within is document further down has the same as the manual above.

    Simple, but even Honeywell commercial validated the manual being incorrect.

    Oh well, working now.