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Must AC handler float switch be in contact with air handler for grounding?

See photo. A contractor broke the condensate drain connection, so I had to reglue it back together after cleaning out inside handler. So now I'm wondering if the float switch has to be in contact with unit for grounding and keeping it in one place?

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,169
    Say again? Probably not to function -- it's an on/off switch. But -- it must be mounted solidly, after all, and it never hurts (well, almost never...) to ground something.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    D107
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,616
    It should be mounted to keep it in place. That bracket looks like it was field fabricated to hold that float switch since it couldn't clamp onto the side of the pan. As for grounding, I'm not positive if it's required, but there isn't much exposed metal on that float switch and it isn't provided with a means of grounding nor is grounding addressed in the instructions (if that's the same model I've used, it looks like it).

    Slide it over until a hole lines up with a screw on the door.

    D107
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,455
    I assume this switch is only switching a 24 volt circuit.

    Per the NEC circuits less than 50 volts are not required to be grounded
    JUGHNED107
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,849
    edited June 2017
    Yes this is an ACS-2 Auxiliary Condensate Drain Pan Overflow Shut-off Switch with 18" leads. by Little Giant Pump Co. 48V AC/DC 5.0 A max. Seems to be connected to low voltage T-Stat wires. Not sure what that white foam piece is--part of float I guess. See photos. I attached it to handler via screw hole to stabilize it.

  • newagedawn
    newagedawn Member Posts: 586
    it does not have to be grounded, its a simple 24 volt safety switch, it does have to wired into the cooling circuit to break it in case of the pan filling with water, break R and Y
    "The bitter taste of a poor install lasts far longer than the JOY of the lowest price"
    D107
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,616
    Huh. The switch itself is an of the shelf part, but I don't think that white foam block came with the switch—unless that is a factory accessory kit, IDK. It does looks like it (the foam & bracket) were made to go in there like that. Maybe it's not the switch I'm thinking of.

    In any case, I hear that the NEC doesn't require grounding, I'd only be concerned with mechanical stability of the switch, to keep it from moving, so that the float can do what it's supposed to do in the unfortunate event of water getting into the aux pan.

    D107
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,804
    edited June 2017
    That bracket was field fabricated because the sandwich clamp couldn't attach to the pan. Is that bracket secured to the A/H? If not, it won't do its job. I like to use the "hockey puck" style water sensors. Just lay it in the pan, and your done. They are 24v. powered, and need a 4 wire.
    Also, in my opinion, I like to break Y and not R, so if there's a freeze up, the fan will continue to run so you don't get Niagara Falls.
    D107
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,849
    Thanks; yes did attach with screw.
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,849
    Thanks; yes did attach with screw.