Buderus G115WS Oil Burner \ Buderus ST-150 Hot Water Tank and Buderus 2107 Logamatic Control Unit

I would just shy away from the Buderus water heater. I have been using the Bradford White Prostor and the HTP line (SSU and SSP)

Depends on the local water quality,on Long Island the chlorides make short work of stainless tanks, We've installed 100's and 100's of Buderus indirects and have never changed a single one.

This is a great combination and I've been installing for years. If you use the ST150 be sure to replace anode annually or at least inspect annually. Document it too. buderus also has a SST tank available as well. If you use the R2107 logamatic with a different indirect than buderus make sure the domestic sensor can fit into the well of the indirect properly.

Hold on... For starters ANY forum that calls a Boiler, a furnace starts off w/ 2 strikes against it.
The posters on that web site have little or no clue....
There are 2 parts to an oil BOILER. The block/ cast iron and the oil burner.
There are at least 3 different burners. Carlin , Beckett and Riello.
I am 99.9% sure there is not a problem w/ a Buderus block.
You need a good oil burner tech to properly set up what ever oil burner you install.
I usually install Carlin burners in my oil boilers.
I have a Riello in my 115-3 Buderus.

Get someone that knows Buderus to install it and you won'the be sorry. Get someone who doesn't and you will.

The 115 works well with all three burners, Beckett,Carlin and Riello. The choice of contractor is going to have much more of an impact on your experience than the type of burner,controls,accessories. I would go to the Bosch website and choose a Accredited Bosch Contractor

http://boschprohvac.com/wp-content/uploads/ABC_files/ABC_ContractorFlyer_70H993025-locator-version.pdf

First, I agree that Buderus makes a decent casting. The burner is likely to be a Riello, which is fine. My comments are directed at the Logamatic. I own a Buderus g205 with the Ecomatic control, which is an earlier generation of the Logamatic. Based on seventeen years of experience with this system, my suggestion is to install a conventional set of boiler controls rather than the Logamatic. If you want to save a bit more, you can add something like a Taco outdoor reset. But Logamatic is a no-go on a typical US installation.

The reason why is that heating systems are really very different in Germany. The Logamatic is designed to work with steel panel emitters. The boiler feeds a hot water loop in the basement, and each radiator is tapped into the loop with a thermostatic control valve. Each valve can be set by the homeowner to balance the temperature as desired. There are no electronic thermostats. The Logamatic control does two main things: first, it controls the temperature of the water in the loop in response to outdoor temperatures. Second, it varies the temperature of the water based on a time schedule. This is how they achieve time of day temperature setbacks.

In a typical US system, whether you have radiators, forced air, or baseboard, one or more digital thermostats are usually used to achieve temperature setback. Combine a US system with a Logamatic, and the thermostat and Logamatic will fight each other unless they are precisely synchronized. If you get everything just right, the system will work fairly well. If you don't you'll be wondering if you bought the emperor's clothes.