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1950s Boiler

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,399

    you can probably either tighten the packing nut or stuff some more packing in to the packing nut of the leaking valve. if it only leaks in one position tightening will probably be enough. don't go nuts tightening the nut or you can crack it.

    i might drain the compression tank first if i were filling the system through the compression tank. if the pressure starts creeping up over around maybe 20 psig or so when the system is hot then you will have to drain water out of/get more air in to the compression tank. i suppose you could add some air with a compressor if you had no other option.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Posts: 9,064
    edited November 6

    The answer is yes, in normal operation the isolation valve to the compression tank should be open, and ideally the tank would have some air in it.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    PMulnj
  • leonz
    leonz Posts: 1,993

    If you drain the tank you will only be adding more air into the system and you do not want that. If you do not have any air escaping the radiators stop bleeding them.

    ethicalpaul
  • As someone also with an original gravity system in action with my 1937 boiler Ideal Boiler No. 7, definitely spend a weekend with a respirator mask and shop vac sucking all that old built-up soot out. I did it three years ago when I bought my house and removed a 3 gallon bucket of the stuff. Nothing has come back which leads me to suspect much of it was leftovers from the coal days. These tanks just keep working.

    My boiler burns clean and efficiently with a nice blue flame and low CO output in the combustion analyzer tests now. I also even gave it a nice paint job.

    My system also has a Honeywell Heat Generator attached which greatly improves circulation, even though your system doesn’t have one, the experts here have given you good information to improve circulation on your second floor. I love my gravity system and have no plans whatsoever to change it out.

    IMG_0352.jpeg IMG_0494.jpeg IMG_0495.jpeg IMG_8157.jpeg

    Lifelong Michigander

    -Willie

    PMulnjethicalpaulSuperTech
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Posts: 9,064

    You need air in the tank or your PRV will constantly leak.

    Of course it doesn’t have to be immediately

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    bburd
  • PMulnj
    PMulnj Posts: 18

    K team.. I filled - bled the radiators. Achieved 12 psi and was confident to run the boiler. After about 30 minutes all radiators were hot - checked the gauge about an hour in and read 30psi. Turned the boiler off off to further monitor now reading 6psi cold. PRV dripping. Reading multiple comments about the compression tank sounds like this is my issue - next steps? Can I salvage what I have this season?

    ethicalpaul
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,399

    close the isolation valve, open the drain for the compression tank and let it drain. it coud take a while to drain completely, then refill to bring the pressure back up to about 12psig, then open the isolation valve.

    you don't have enough air in the compression tank for the volume of that system.

    ethicalpaulbburdleonz
  • PMulnj
    PMulnj Posts: 18

    copy - little different method performed. Closed the iso drain the tank - hooked up the hose and started filling - opened the iso so I could determine psi on the boiler ga. Brought up to 12 psi.
    Will report back on outcome - hope she holds.

  • ted_can
    ted_can Posts: 6

    70+ years and counting wonder how much of the new fangled stuff will make it to even 17 yrs, heck-7 yrs ?

    These boilers are either a complete joy to service or completely frustrating depending on one of these being installed in the expansion tank

    https://www.tacocomfort.com/documents/FileLibrary/402-070.pdf