OK, who made this mess?

Patchogue Phil_2 · October 4

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1905418#Comment_1905418

There is nothing to fix at the stovepipe penetration. The thimble is perfectly sealed into the flue & the blocks. Oftentimes the feather-out material does not adhere to the concrete blocks.

leonz · October 4

Its either RTV silicone or well mixed wet furnace cement after you break it away as the mortar looks like its broken and separated back to the flue pipe.

They did it on the cheap and they did not use clay flue pipe as they should have to transition into the chimney.

The flue pipe does not look good at all in any case

Patchogue Phil_2 · October 5

Absolutely no changes need to be made to the flue pipe into the chimney nor how it is sealed.

leonz · October 5

Clay flue tile is typically exposed and the flue pipe enters the clay flue pipe where it is exposed out of the chimney block.

At least buy a carbon monoxide alarm.

Patchogue Phil_2 · October 5

This is not a wood or coal stove flue passing through a combustible wall. No clay thimble is required nor typical. As I said before, no leaks and the metal flue pipe is perfectly sealed. No additional CO detector is needed.

pecmsg · October 5

@Patchogue Phil_2

No additional CO detector is needed.

I respectfully Disagree

Low level CO detectors should be mandatory in homes with young children and elderly adults!

UL approved detectors only alarm after 70PPM has been achieved and maintained for up to 4 hours.

ChrisJ · October 5

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1905507#Comment_1905507

To be fair, he said no additional detector is needed, you don't know what he already has.

This is also one of the benefits of an older drafty home.

The tighter the house, the bigger the danger when it comes to such things. Imagine all of the gas lamps many people had years ago, but in a modern tight house.

Drafty old houses have problems, but it's not all bad.