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Troubleshooting dehumidifier - Santa Fe Advanced 90
Hi all,
The dehumidifer in my crawlspace doesn't dehumidify. Honestly, I never ran it enough to know if/when it might've stopped working. In the last 9 years I maybe ran it for a total of 20 hours. Not sure how old it is.
The manual doesn't have troubleshooting for the following scenario:
- Fan runs,
- compressor gets hot to the touch,
- capacitor tests ok (46.3µF) according to its rating,
- coils don't freeze
- unit doesn't trip on thermal overload,
- put a thermometer against the coils, fins, capillary tube, that bulb-looking thing, and nothing reads above/below room temp.
- humidistat turns unit on/off at about the right position on the dial according to a humidity sensor I have.
I assume there is no refrigerant. The blue coil looks sus.
Anything I can try? Is this something any tech would/could service?
EDIT: I just noticed I can probably remove that rating plate. I wonder if there is diagnostic anything behind there. I'll go check that now. Eh, nothing back there except maybe a capacitor for the fan motor
Appreciate any guidance,
David
Comments
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welcome to my collection of 4 dehumidifiers since 2010 from which the refrigerant has escaped.
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is it still under warranty? if it has refrigerant in it and the compressor is actually pumping(though possible for the compressor to run but fail to pump, a fairly uncommon failure mode), you should hear it flowing and you should hear it equalize if you turn it off suddenly after it has been running for a bit(you should hear the liquid being released from the capillary tube from the high side to the low side for maybe 10 seconds to a minute or so after the compressor stops).
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I definitely don’t hear anything flowing or equalizing. Almost certainly out of warranty - bought the house almost 9 years ago and it came with the house.
I’d love to use it to teach myself about refrigeration, as if I need something else to do. At least I can’t break it.DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.0 -
you could always add an access fitting to the low side with flare fittings, add some metal leak type stop leak and evacuate it and charge it and see how that goes. according to the epa you need a part 608 certification to buy r410a.
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On that note if the goal is to learn, the 608 certification is not terribly difficult to obtain, and the large study book for it has some good info and would make a decent reference to use in conjunction with forums like this etc
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Then you need gauges, vac pump and a recovery machine and tank. harbor freight has some cheap stuff, also Vevor.
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same here- I added ref. I don’t recall needing to add a tap fitting. I just charged it to general super heat numbers
when it lost its charge again, I just got rid of it. Too much hassle taken those things apart.I don’t recall if I tried pressure Testing, looking for the leak. I think I did and the leak was buried inside the coil.
Now I just buy the cheap Chinese import stuff. I’m not spending that kind of money again on a name brand appliance, and getting five or six years out of it.
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At 15 years that system had a good run. Most are 7 1/2 - 10 years average life.
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