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In Floor Loop Design

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ecurbjk
ecurbjk Member Posts: 15

Hi,

Just looking to see if my loop design is correct for a small home we are building.

Attached is a floor plan and the design I created. If anyone has experience with loop design and can provide some feedback it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Bruce.

IMG_1705.jpeg IMG_1704.jpeg

Comments

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 394
    edited July 22

    Where is the rest of design?
    Heat loss?
    Loop lengths, and flow rates?
    Are these loops in a slab, a build up with warmboard or similar material, or staple up with plates?
    What are the floor finishes in each room?
    Etc.

    On first look the utility room and the bathroom are wrong and will most likely result in uneven heating. And it’s definitely not a good idea to run tubing under the toilet flange.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 7,371

    Heating the closet?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,974

    The utility room and hall probably do not need much tube

    The runs down and back to the bed room may be sufficient in the hall

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • ecurbjk
    ecurbjk Member Posts: 15

    the heat loss is 9,102 btu/hr


    runs


    Loop

    Area

    Plotted length

    Z1-L1

    Office and bathroom

    179.0 ft

    Z1-L2

    Bedroom

    182.6 ft

    Z2-L1

    Kitchen and utility

    138.0 ft

    Z2-L2

    Hallway and mud room

    136.2 ft

    Z2-L3

    Living A

    121.1 ft

    Z2-L4

    Living B

    117.7 ft

  • Ideally, you will want to come in and out of the rooms through doorways and not under walls. Nails through bottom plates can snag and penetrate the tubing.

    And when you go through the doorways, crowd the tubing together in the middle of the opening to allow for threshold nailing at the ends.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,974

    The less 180 turns , the easier to install. Especially on mesh for a slab pour

    I typically do the outside walls first, an L shape loop. You could go through doorways also.

    Basically I look at the loop lengths every room needs and adjust the loops as you go, getting all the tube required into the space

    You will maybe get 6 different opinions, at days end they will all work

    IMG_1577.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    GGrossAlan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • psb75
    psb75 Member Posts: 1,155

    Simplify. Buy a 1000' roll of pipe. Put in 4 loops. Don't zone. One temp for the whole slab.

    GroundUp
  • Tube spacing is important. Even when 12" spacing would satisfy the design, I would install at 9" to be able to lower the supply temperature to allow for greater boiler efficiency with a condensing boiler.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,974

    For a small job, short loops I would even go 6" on center. 3/8" tube is needed for the best 6" design.

    If it is a slab, elevating the tube helps performace and efficiency, also.

    Screenshot 2024-02-02 at 9.07.38 AM.png slab with 6 & 12%22 OC.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream