Hot water cast iron radiator not heating
Hi, can anyone advise me on how to proceed. The plumber disconnected the radiator form the input and output valve bled the system that repeatingly. They also kept feeding it water from the furnace. They other radiators are working fine. Can anyone assist me in determing the problem. The plumber says to get a new radiator which I do not agree with.
Thanks in advance
Comments
-
Disconnected the radiator? Eh? Radiator is likely airbound. Question is, how to purge the air from it…
First, is there a bleed valve on the radiator? Top of one end or the other. With the valves to the system open and the pressure good, open that — should get good stream of water; leave it open until you do.
If that does it, lovely. If it doesn't, the system needs to be purged. Any idea how it is piped? Picture, maybe?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
get a new "plumber"
1 -
here is the pic. How much pressure should the furnace be should we raise the it? We already opened the bleed valve
0 -
0 -
more pics
0 -
Why was the radiator disconnected?
Is that valve 100% open?
Were there any piping changes to the system?
If so that could very well be the issue…
typical system like that runs at about 15 psi.
0 -
how is it plumbed in the basement? is it separate supply and return mains or is it monoflo or home run or something?
0 -
Is this radiator on the highest floor in the house by any chance? The height above the boiler affects the pressure you need to maintain in the system to get the water to the top.
—
Bburd0 -
X-2
0 -
Why pipe dope on a union 🤦🏼♀️
2 -
The radiator was removed and reinstalled to install new floors. Then there was a leak, called different plumber who said leak was fixed paid him and it has not worked since. The valve and feed elbow we’re changed.
There are 2 radiators connected to that feed. The other radiator is working.
0 -
Is the valve open?
0 -
it on the second floor but it is not the furthest from the furnace other rads are further away and working fine. Only attic above.
0 -
Is the gold part called a union? If yes that part is pressured not saudered. We think that part is incorrect but plumber said it is.
0 -
The spud is the part that screws in to the radiator that mates with the valve. the part of the spud and valve that go together with the nut is called a union. It is to allow the piping to be taken apart. It doesn't need to be doused in dope and teflon tape but is unlikely to be the cause of your lack of flow. That spud should have come with the valve, they aren't standardized so it need to be the part that came with that manufacturer's valve, but if it were wrong it would leak, not prevent flow. If you open the bleeder, does water come out?
since that copper pipe is very unlikely to be original, i wonder what else was done.
0 -
When you open the small silvery valve at the top of the radiator on the outlet end, does water come out?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
1 -
go to
Find a contractor on this site.
0 -
When you open the bleeder on the non working radiator 1 of three things will happen:
1 you get nothing
2 you get water
3 you get air.
If you want help you have to answer the questions.
What floor is the problem radiator on and how much water pressure is in the boiler?
0 -
been there. You likely have a “bubble” in the run out piping. Pretty difficult to diagnose over the phone screen
0 -
This is from another section "off the wall" You prob have a converted gravity system…
Swapping out the valve may have messed w/ the pressure drop…
0 -
when bleeder is open we get water and air bubbles
0 -
the gages on furnace read 150 and 50. Radiator is on the second floor. If air bubble is the issue how can it be resolved.
0 -
50 #'s of pressure?
We need pictures of the gauge and the boiler from a distance.
1 -
Hey, sounds like you’re dealing with a stubborn radiator issue that’s not resolved by just bleeding or adding water. If the other radiators are working fine, that points to a localized problem rather than a system-wide one.
First, double-check that both the input (supply) and output (return) valves on that radiator are fully open. Sometimes one valve gets partially closed or stuck, cutting off flow. Also, after disconnecting and reconnecting, air can get trapped in the system, so bleeding is crucial—but if you’re bleeding it repeatedly with no improvement, there might be a blockage or sludge build-up inside the radiator restricting water flow.
Another possibility is a faulty valve—either the manual valve or thermostatic valve (if installed)—which could be stuck closed or partially closed.
Before jumping to replacing the radiator, try these steps:
Flush the radiator: You or the plumber can remove it and flush it out to clear any debris or sludge. This often restores flow and heat transfer.
Check valve operation: Make sure the valves open and close smoothly.
Inspect piping: Look for any kinked or blocked pipes feeding the radiator.
Balance the system: Sometimes, adjusting the flow balance valves on other radiators helps push water through the stubborn one.
If all that fails, only then consider replacing the radiator. But most of the time, it’s a valve or blockage issue that can be fixed without a new unit.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you want tips on flushing or balancing your system.
0 -
Stupid question, did this radiator heat prior to removal?
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.9K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 57 Biomass
- 425 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 110 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.7K Gas Heating
- 105 Geothermal
- 160 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.6K Oil Heating
- 70 Pipe Deterioration
- 978 Plumbing
- 6.3K Radiant Heating
- 387 Solar
- 15.4K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 44 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements