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Locating through wall AC unit in my shop

Have a 24K BTU window AC I'm putting in my shop but not sure what's the best place to locate it. Main part of the shop is about 25x40, 13' ceiling with 2 fans. Addition to one side is 12x40, sloped ceiling 8' up to 11' where it ties in. Addition is open to the main part of the shop, no wall between.

Thought about putting it up 6 or 7 feet around the middle of the 25' main shop wall. Wiring would be a lot longer run. Other option would be to put it in the addition on the 40' wall pointing out into the main part of the shop.

Don't know if one would be better than the other so looking for recommendations.

Comments

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    what are you doing in this shop?

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,987

    I think I'd put it where the outside end is shaded. I wouldn't expect distribution issues in an open space with a fan or two moving the air.

    Will 2 tons be enough? What other loads are in the space, garage doors that open, etc.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,770

    You want to put it 7-8' up. The cold air drops so the space above the AC will remain unconditioned and there is no reason to cool the air space above

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,764

    Halfway on the 40 ft wall, up high. Ceiling fans down the middle. I doubt it will satisfy on a hot day, but it might be enough to be tolerable.

  • IDTag
    IDTag Member Posts: 3
    edited May 5

    Shop is pretty well insulated but when it's hitting 90+ outside it gets a little too warm later in the day. If I can drop the temp 5 degrees or so I should be good.

    I have a car habit so that's what the shop is for. Doors stay closed when it's hot outside and only garage door windows face the afternoon sun.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    Look into a mini split. Heating, cooling, only requires a 2 1/2" hole through the wall.

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,987

    Or a PTAC. About as cheap as you can get & made to be easily swapped out when it fails.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    The reason for the Mini is security. A window shaker can be shoved out of the way.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,069

    I bought the least expensive window unit from HD for my 774 sq ft shop. I mounted it to blow where I sit at the desk, about 7" above the floor.

    It will drop the temperature about 5 degrees

    Screenshot 2025-05-05 at 9.34.15 AM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719

    I think we found why the refrigerant escapes. They weren't that cheap for the smallest unit you could find in like 1972.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,708

    4000 btu GE Carry Cool in 1973 was $99.

    That's $713 today.

    They were Lexan chassis with all aluminum spinefin evaporator and condenser and used R12.

    They were not known for leaking. I think the EER was only 7 give or take, but they lasted a long time and fit in the window well.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719

    I thought the ones in the Sears catalog started at a couple hundred bucks.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,708

    Carry Cools were known to be cheap.

    They were always $100-150 give or take, depending on the year.

    Either way….. $700+ today….

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • IDTag
    IDTag Member Posts: 3

    Shop already had a new propane heater so just wanted AC. Paid $300 for the window unit, 230v LG, still in the box. If the heater wasn't already in would have gone with another mini split. Have one in the back 2 bedrooms and another going in the detached garage.