Restoring One Pipe -- finally

HI Everyone, I am finally restoring the boiler.
In a "Whole house" heating update, insulating the house came first. Who would have thought it would take this long? Most of the house is now insulated, new electrical and plumbing installed. It is winter, so I am doing basement things: water heater, now boiler.
The boiler is a Weil-McLain EGH-85. 350k input, 280k DOE output. At a design temperature of -30, The new heat load of the building is 240k BTUH. So, I am redistributing and removing the radiators according to calculated need. Given the fact that this year we saw -39 degrees, I am not worried about being oversized. I am reusing the 3" main but will only have 14 risers.
Originally, I had two mains, 3" took care of the East half of the house, and 2" the west half. They met on the other side of the house and came back in a wet return. I thought I had a picture of the loop where the two connected
but it is behind the wash machine. The return line is dry here but drops down to go under the floor at the stairway. Then went into a condensate tank, with pump.
Because my heat load has decreased, I can now send all the steam through the 3" main, reduce it at this junction, then continue around the house in a 2" main (change slope and direction of flow). This will allow the end of the main to be a few feet from the boiler. I will take pictures when I get that far.
The right section of the boiler leaked, and all the burners were rusted / unusable. The section is now replaced, and the new burners are in a box in the corner. I did a pressure test and decided to replace all the ropes and sealing rings. That is what I am doing today. I probably should have boiled (chemically clean) all the sections but did not. There is a lot of calcium buildup and rust.
The near boiler piping was welded, and not quite right. I am moving the boiler and have modified the header to make a dropped header — threaded. I will send pictures when I get it assembled. Now I have two more sections to clean and put together. then the left section is ready to connect to the right section.
Comments
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This is in Velva?
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
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Velva, ND. If that's the place I'm thinking of, I looked at that some years ago for a former owner.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Yes, Velva ND. and you were here. You recognize the wash machine. it is still there. 3 phase, 3 hp belt drive, overhead shaft.
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The original coal boiler is still there, and some of the parts are still cluttering a corner somewhere. Part of me wants to remove it for the space, another part says keep it for a potential museum piece. most of the auxiliary equipment and piping has been removed. The old water tank leaked; I am waiting for help to truck it off.
The bricking is crumbling, but there is enough left that I can tell the original water level of the system.
Obviously, a wet return traveling under the basement floor returns condensate at a temperature around 65 degrees. I suspect that continuously adding 65-degree water to a cast iron boiler has something to do with the metal fatigue of the inlet section. I plan to eliminate that problem by employing dry return. With the change in the main, the main now ends a short distance from the boiler. thus I will try to maintain 212-degree saturated water at the Hartford loop.
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Or, if the return has to stay buried, insulate it. We generally do.
And I bet a steam or gas engine originally drove those lineshafts.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Now for the near boiler piping: 24 inches from the water line, can it be taller than this? how tall is too tall?
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It can be taller. There is no "too tall" for a header but there is "unnecessarily tall".
If the water is reasonable quality, it won't even splash above the boiler anyway.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
It's not just a matter of how high the water splashes; it's how far the droplets get carried by the high velocity steam column. That's why they call it carryover.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
The velocity isn't high enough to carry them over, if the size and number of the supplies is anywhere at all close to manufacturer's specification.
But lots of people sure think it is, even though they have never seen it.
And just for fun, let's say the velocity is high enough. The drops don't stay suspended. They eventually hit a pipe wall and stick to it.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
There's something called entrainment where the droplets stay in the steam train until they're physically separated from it, such as going around a bend and hitting a pipe wall. That's the idea behind the header. But how much separation occurs depends on the velocity at the point of separation and the size of the droplets.
Have you ever put a sight glass on your equalizer to see how much water is coming back to the boiler from the header? If you haven't, that's going to be my next project.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-241 -
entrainment is another myth that people think exists yet no one has ever seen. I'm not saying it could never happen, but it never happens in residential steam. The drops fall out and hit a wall, with or without drop header. Residential steam isn't very fast. The bigger the boiler, the bigger the pipes so the speed is limited.
"That's the idea behind the header." Not to be arrogant, but who are you talking to here? 😅
There is no water coming back to the boiler from the header, unless the water quality is bad enough. See my videos.
At startup there will be a very small amount sliding down the pipe wall but once everything is hot, the condensate in the header becomes steam again before it even has a chance to drip back to the boiler. The steam passing by re-vaporizes it.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Of course you can't see it. Are you going to tell me wind is a myth because no one has ever seen it? It's a real, measurable physical phenomenon. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/liquid-entrainment
I've looked through your videos. I didn't see one that adresses this.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
I'm saying if they are so small that they can't be seen, they don't affect anything.
The examples on that page are very small tubes. At our speeds and size of pipe, there is no measurable effect.
Note from your links: "In annular flow, liquid forms around the inside wall of the pipe and gas flows at a high velocity through the central core. It occurs for gas velocities greater than 20 ft/sec (6 m/sec)."
This video shows the utter lack of carryover and entrainment:
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
You wouldn't be able to see it there. The droplets are too small and moving too fast. I mean, I don't "see" any steam there either. Does that mean there's no steam there?
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
come now.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
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