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How to pitch this beast radiator

Snowman1990
Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

I need to pitch this radiator but it’s quite stationary with the 2 pipes. It’s the only radiator that doesn’t really get hot. Barely hot towards the valve end by the time of finishing hitting room temp.

I believe it’s the incorrect pitch. Has a new gorton D on it.

How can I pitch this and not mess up the piping? It clearly is pitched in the opposite direction of what is needed.


Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,691

    Radiator pitch almost never affects how much or how fast a radiator will heat Not to say that you couldn't lift the vent end slightly — but I doubt that it will make much difference.

    However.

    How fast does that inlet pipe get hot? Does it heat quickly, up to the valve? If not, where does that inlet line heat to? What I'm thinking about is two possibilities — that the inlet line may not be able to vent, or may have a sag in it, or that that valve is not, in fact, open when you think it iis.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    EdTheHeaterManMad Dog_2
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,233

    This might get you the pitch you want,

    but I believe that you need a way to get the air out of the radiator and let the steam into the radiator. Can you remove the vent and see if there is anything coming out the vent opening of the radiator? If nothing is coming out the vent location, then remove the radiator and see if there is any steam coming out of the pipe.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Mad Dog_2
  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    @EdTheHeaterMan amd @Jamie Hall so the pipe and valve do get nice and hot and then the first section of the radiator gets warm.

    I will try removing the vent all together to see if it gets hot but I have a feeling it’s years of condensate that maybe never was able to return?

    thanks

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,691

    The condensate would all return. If, that is, the valve is open and the pipe clear…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    ethicalpaul
  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 333

    I suspect the valve is clogged or otherwise no longer functioning as intended

  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,763

    You can try goosing the air end with some wood 2 x 4s (wont scar wood floors) as a fulcrum and slide a few fender washers under each leg, but don't overdue it or you'll snap the brass spud.

    Its so hard to tell from a picture, but it looks well pitched toward the inlet as is. Check that. Mad Dog

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,233
    edited January 20

    @Snowman1990 said: "I will try removing the vent all together to see if it gets hot but I have a feeling it’s years of condensate that maybe never was able to return?"

    YEARS of condensate? what does that look like. I have a bottle of water that has been in the back seat of my car for a couple months… I would still drink it. I didn't know that water from condensation had an expiration date.

    OR

    Do you mean years of debris accumulation? That can be checked out by removing the radiator by disconnecting the union fitting on that valve. Put something under the radiator, like a broken handle snow shovel, before you move it (after you disconnect it) so you don't scratch the floor. Then look inside with a flashlight to see if it is clear.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    understood yeah years of whatever can sit in a radiator. This is the only one pitched the wrong way in the entire house. I’ll report back with what I discover.

    Thanks everyone

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,310

    @Snowman1990

    If it is not hammering or making noise its probably not a condensate issue. With that riser going up its going to be difficult to pitch.

    If the pitch turns out to be the issue you have a choice:

    Put the rad up on blocks and slide it away from the wall and connect it with 2 45 deg elbows with a close nipple between them or a 45 and a street 45 for a swing joint.

  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    So I was able to pitch but no dice. Valve gets very hot, so i assume it’s the radiator?

  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    There seems to be cold air coming out of the radiator with vent off

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,397

    Cold (room temperature) air will indeed come out of the radiator at first. That's what the vent does is let the air escape the radiator while the steam is coming in.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    JakeCKChrisJ
  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 1,002

    Make sure that the valve is fully open. If you still cannot get heat I would take the top of the valve off to make sure that there is no restriction in it. These valves will sometimes break and the parts inside will restrict the opening.

    delcrossvLong Beach Ed
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958
    edited January 23
    1. Run it for a full cycle with the vent off. Does the rad get warm then? If not, then
    2. Take the bonnet off the valve and make sure the valve is actually functional. If so then
    3. Flip the vent upside down on the rad above on that riser (floor above) Run again with the vent off on this rad. If it then gets hot, the problem is balancing the two rads.
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Long Beach Ed
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,880

    The only way a radiator can go bad is to leak. It's an empty vessel that allows steam in with a vent to let air out. The problem is not the radiator, especially if you can feel air coming out with the vent removed.

    How big are the vents on the other radiators? They may need slowed down. One can only speed up so much before the venting, potentially, exceeds the steam supply. At that point control becomes very difficult. Given that you mentioned having a D vent on that one (huge BTW), I'm curious about the other radiators.

    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
    delcrossvChrisJ
  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23
    edited January 23

    @KC_Jones i have a D on the smaller radiator that the riser runs too as well. So put maybe a Gorton 5 on that and see what happens?

  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    @delcrossv how do I remove a “Bonnet”?

  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,880

    I have a feeling that could make a big difference. That said, it's not necessarily just about the radiators on that one pipe. It's about main venting, then all the radiator vents to get things balanced.

    Out of curiosity, what is your main venting like?

    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958

    It unscrews from the valve body. Use two wrenches: one on the bonnet, one on the valve body to counter.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958

    Yes, Try a 4 or 5 and see what happens. Like @KC_Jones , I'm also interested in how your mains are vented as a D is awfully large to use on a rad.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,310

    @Snowman1990

    I would do as @delcrossv recommended.

    Take the vent off the radiator. Turn the vent on the radiator above it upside down and make sure the valve on the lower radiator is open.

    You want to find out if the radiator will heat. Once you find out it will actually heat then you will be able to troubleshoot further. Be ready to screw the vent back on before steam comes out.

    If it does not heat, then I would investigate the radiator valve.

    delcrossv
  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    @KC_Jones @delcrossv @EBEBRATT-Ed thank you all. So there is a Gorton 1 at the end of the main line and that’s it. There are no other main vents on the system, which is why I opted to put a D on this one, the room across the way, and the radiator above this one. Everything gets hot except this one big rad

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958

    Flip the upstairs vent over with no vent on the lower one. Bet this one gets hot.

    You may be under-vented on your main, but it certainly looks like you're over-vented on your upstairs rad.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,310

    Air and steam will take the path of least resistance. For instance, air and steam coming up the riser to the radiator tee.

    Which way do you think the air and steam will go? Pretend you are inside the pipe.

    Is it easier for the air and steam to go straight up the riser or is it easier to make a right hand turn and go into the big radiator? The answer is obvious.

    You probably need to restrict the venting slightly on the other rads to make this one heat

    Don't make a lot of big changes at once or thing will go out of wack.

    Just keep tweaking things little by little.

    First thing is to find out if the rad will heat at all.

    delcrossv
  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    @EBEBRATT-Ed @delcrossv could I just test this by shutting off the valve upstairs vs flipping vent?

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958
    edited January 24

    Do you KNOW the upstairs rad valve works? Flipping the vent shouldn't be hard, just loosen it 1/2 turn. Messing with the upstairs valve just adds a variable.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,219

    Is this the right type of valve and the spud looks like it is going into the Tee and not the radiator.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958
    edited January 24

    They'll work in either direction. In any event that's not causative here. Looks like a typical in-line rad valve, albeit installed backwards.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Snowman1990
    Snowman1990 Member Posts: 23

    @delcrossv @EBEBRATT-Ed you and everyone else were correct. I had to restrict, but by doing so, it threw off other radiators in different rooms. Which tells me that maybe I do have a venting problem at the end of the line in the basement?

    delcrossv
  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 2,996
    edited January 25

    No @EdTheHeaterMan, no, this is just plain wrong, bad Ed

    known to beat dead horses
    EdTheHeaterMandelcrossvPC7060
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958

    That's where I'd start. Vent mains fast, radiators slow (comparatively).

    What do your mains and main vents look like?

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,310

    @109A_5 good catch on the valve position and spud.

    If that is a globe valve and it is it could hold some water in the rad installed backwards but may not matter.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,958
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.