A few different questions regarding EDR and venting

NY2024

1. Replacement Boiler Sizing Chart.pdf

2. Burnham Boiler Details.pdf

3. Radiator Photo.pdf

4. Vent that can't be removed from radiator.pdf

5. Vent that is blocked by cover.pdf

Hi!

I have a few questions I was hoping you might be able to help with.

1. I filled out the “Replacement Boiler Sizing Chart” (see attached) to see how the Burnham natural gas burning steam boiler (see details attached) in the house we recently moved into compares to the EDR of the radiators in the house. It looks like the EDR of the house is appx. 302 sq. ft. Is the correct number from the attached information on my boiler to compare this to 450 sq. ft.? Does that imply that my boiler is appx 49% oversized?
2. If this is the case, does that mean that the boiler is not performing efficiently? Is an oversizing by this magnitude mean that I would be spending far more on natural gas to fuel the boiler than I need to?  Is there anything (within reason) that can be done to help make this more efficient (i.e., without replacing the boiler)?
3. Is reflective foil insulation (like the double reflective bubble insulation) safe to use behind steam radiators? From all the stuff available for sale on Amazon, it looks like it’s only rated for hot water radiators.
4. I have a tube-type radiator (see photo attached) that is tapped at the top (where the air vent currently is placed). There is another nipple available towards the bottom (circled section on photo). It looks like it might be plugged. Do you think it would be possible to simply remove the plug with a flat head screwdriver/drill bit and be able to put a vent there? This radiator gets pretty hot on the sides and top, but the inner tubes and lower sections often don’t get nearly as hot as the rest of the radiator. Also, is it just me or do the tube-type radiators not radiate heat for as long as the column-style radiators?
5. I have attached another photo of another radiator that has an air vent that cannot be removed. It looks like the vent would have been put on before some of the radiator was assembled. Is there a way to remove this vent and then create some sort of extender (for lack of a better word) from the tap so that I re-attach a new vent that can be swapped out in the future. As it currently stands, the current air vent cannot be removed as it is impossible to rotate due to being blocked.
6. I have attached another photo of another radiator where the removal of the air vent is also blocked. I could take the cover off to remove this air vent. However, no shape (other than the Heat Timer Vari-Valve) would fit through the current hole cut into the cover. Again, is there some sort of extender that could be fitted into the tap as to extend out past the cover so that I could change the valve?

Thanks!

ethicalpaul

That's a lot of questions for one thread but I'll try. Also, PDFs are about the worst format to post pictures here 😅

1. Yes
2. No. "Efficiency" is a tricky, overloaded term. Pretty much all the BTUs that aren't going up your chimney are indeed going into your house.
3. Yes. Does it do anything worthwhile? Hard to say
4. This question has too many questions in it. Yes the vent is in the wrong place. Yes it should be at that lower tapping. The lower tapping plug will likely have to be drilled out, hopefully without damaging the threads (much).
5. Yes it looks like they put that plug in after the vent. You can wrangle the vent out of there (perhaps by tearing it apart), then using some 1/8" brass fittings from supplyhouse.com or elsewhere to build out a connection that is clear of that plug.
6. That is hilarious. That vent is among my most hated ones. Yes you can make an extender with 1/8" fittings. Mind the pitch of the structure you create, it should drain back to the radiator and not trap water.

Jamie Hall

@ethicalpaul beat me to it on all counts…

ethicalpaul

Thanks Jamie, I must have had my Wheaties this morning.

Here is the kind of thing you can build for your vents, @NY2024. I did this to have valves on my vents for various reasons but you should get the idea:

KC_Jones

The vent coming through the hole in the cover is rather hysterical. My comment would be, get rid of the cover. I don't even understand why it's there, it can't be to pretty things up, if it is someone's idea of pretty is far different from mine. Also, as said, those vents are terrible.

dabrakeman

There are a number of threads regarding managing oversized boilers . Unfortunately it is pretty common. Keep your pressure as low as you can and either don't do setbacks or better (in my opinion and data supported) manage those recoveries to avoid any significant pressure build. Breaking up recoveries into segments, using timers to delay restarts and using thermal sensors on radiators are all methods you will find discussed with some searching on the site here.

NY2024

Thank you all very much for answering my questions!

I have already purchased the fittings to construct a connection that steers clear of the plug on the radiator.

Will let you know how it turns out!

I will be removing that Varivalve in the bathroom Sunrad to try to slow it down.

That being said, how come you dislike the Varivalves so much? I put them on three radiators in the house that were barely heating and now they all perform really well. I don't have a main vent on my steam main, so unfortunately I have to vent everything currently through the radiators. I'm hoping to put a main vent soon.

ethicalpaul

They vent very fast, often spit, and the adjustment even at the slowest is still too fast for my liking.

But yeah in your case if you are venting your main through your radiators then a fast vent might be useful.

skimmer

What would you recommend in place of the vari valve where space is limited? i do find that it does spit

ethicalpaul

Convector all bets are off 😂

Try a Maid O Mist it's very few dollars. They sell them in angle and straight configurations in case one might work better for you.

Is that the supply right there below the vent??

skimmer

No thats something that holding it up to maintain a pitch back towards the supply.. the supply is on the opposite side

mattmia2

Fin tube baseboard is difficult to get to work correctly on 1 pipe steam because the water and steam are fighting each other in a small area. It can work ok in short sections but it needs to be pitched toward the valve.