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Question: Soldering vs. ProPress Coupling for Dirt Magnet and Air Eliminator

joseluisheating
joseluisheating Member Posts: 44
in Radiant Heating

Hi everyone,

I'm in the final stages of my project and could use some advice. I bought a dirt magnet and an air eliminator that have the same type of connection, and I'm trying to figure out whether I should use a copper coupling and solder (weld) it in, or if I should go with a ProPress coupling instead.

The challenge is that the dirt magnet has some plastic components inside, so I'm worried that using heat for soldering might cause the plastic to melt. I also have welding couplings and elbows on hand, but I'm not sure if that's the best choice in this case.

What would you recommend? Should I risk soldering, or is using ProPress the safer and better option here?

Thanks for the help!

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,754
    edited November 20

    I removed the innards and sweat it but if i had it to do over again i would have bought the npt version so i could just sweat adapters on to the pipe instead of sweating that body which absorbs a lot of heat.

    those are sweat socket fittings so you will have to sweat to the discal and dirtmag.

    Mad Dog_2delcrossvjoseluisheating
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,247

    what do the install instructions say.

    joseluisheating
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,247

    joseluisheating
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,468

    Soldering & welding are not interchangeable. Those are solder joints. Mad Dog

    Consulting by Mad Dog & Matt Jr.
    delcrossvIronmanjoseluisheatingmattmia2
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,514

    Those are sweat sockets: you have to solder them.

    I’d use low temp silver bearing solder. There’s no need to disassemble it if you know how to properly sweat pipe. If not, I’d return it and get one that’s threaded or one with press fittings.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    joseluisheatingmattmia2
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,241
    edited November 20
    image.png

    Still gotta be quick and focused, but it helps.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    joseluisheating
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,108

    The composite media inside is far enough away from the brass body, so you can soft solder, around 456°F with no problem.

    I would not silver braze, around 1100°F, on the body, however

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    joseluisheating
  • joseluisheating
    joseluisheating Member Posts: 44

    Thanks @mattmia2 @pecmsg @Mad Dog_2 @Ironman @delcrossv @hot_rod for you comments of help, I really appreciate.

    I understand that I need to solder these parts. I'll use low heat and keep the flame at a greater distance to avoid overheating. I'll also make sure to keep the flame as far away from the body as possible. Additionally, I’ll use cooling gel to cool down the body part immediately after soldering. I plan to do this for both the dirt magnet and the air eliminator.

    Thanks so much guys, I am in my last step to finish the system. It would be very hard without all you! I appreciate a lot

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,754

    The gel is to stop heat migration while soldering. you can do the same thing with placement of a wet rag. In the case of that housing i don't think there is a lot either would do without making it difficult to heat the joint. To cool it after just wrap a wet rag around it or spray it with water if you want to cool it faster.

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