Gate vs quarter turn valve.
At the risk of seeming totally nitpicky, would the quarter turn valve be better longevity wise than the gate valve this boiler came with? Thought I’d ask while I have an empty boiler and switching would be easy.
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Good point. I’m just worried about it freezing up. Some other gate valves in this house have but I never exercised them.
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Ball valves are, I think, a little more forgiving in terms of lack of operation and water quality — and, perhaps, orientation.
They also do one thing that gates cannot do: be set partly open. Yes, before you scream, a gate can be set partly open too — but it isn't good for it to stay that way. Either open or closed, thank you. Ball valves aren't all that good at throttling flow — they are very non-linear — but at least they can do it without damage.
Gates are also more sensitive to water quality, and if they are used where there is significant solid material and they are oriented stem up (the usual), they can fail to close properly.
In larger or high pressure applications, they must reflect pressure direction: when they are closed the high pressure must be such that it presses the gate against the face when closed.
On the other hand, if maintained, they will never seize up, or at least I've never seen that happen (if the stem is not kept slightly oiled, yes but not otherwise) whereas ball valves can sometimes.
Which makes it sound like ball valves are the way to go. But not always. In larger sizes they can be remarkably difficult to operate; gates are less sensitive to that. In very large sizes ball valves can also be very expensive, and have a longer laying length than gates. Ball valves also sometimes have trouble with the seals for the ball; gate valves depend on the accurate machining of the gate and the face and that isn't a factor.
In general, though, for smaller valves I'd go with ball valves.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Nothing wrong with a gate valve except……..the cheap ones will leak every time.
A cheap ball valve will outlast a cheap gate valve. And ball valves generally don't leak except the cheapies will leak around the stem.
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True, @EBEBRATT-Ed . a cheap gate valve often won't close fully off. A properly machined one won't — but that removes them from the cheap category!
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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If exercised regularly, I have seen Gate Valves that are 100 years old hold. The Jury is out on ball valve longevity vis-a-vis gate Valves, but high quality American Made Ball Valves like Apollo, Nibco, Hammond, et cetera are now over 60 yrs in operation. Mad Dog
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I have fixed several stem leaks by wire brushing the stem. Then cycle the valve and loosen and re tighten the bonnet to redistribute the existing packing. Repeat a couple of times.
If that doesn't work , then repack.
Once that didn't work, so I bought a new valve and put the new guts in the old valve body.
I'll do almost anything to avoid sweating copper.
On seldom used valves, I like to loosen the bonnet before I close the valve.
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how often do you plan on draining the boiler?
Maybe a rubber washer compression stop is best , like you used to see on water heaters, worse case you screw a cap on it if it drips. The stems rarely freeze on that type of valve
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Gate valves can to some extent lap themselves to clean the gate off. ball valves if they scale, the scale is unlikely to come off the ball. many ball valves have a packing on the stem that can be repaired.
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@Mad Dog_2 and others, is Watts a good brand? I bought five of these from Supplyhouse:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0820956-3-4-Quarter-Turn-Boiler-Drain-Drain-Cock
to replace these in photo below (just the drains, not the shut-offs, but they’re NIBCO)
for no better reason than they’re probably 30 years old and I heard from who knows where that ball valves are better. They’re on the zone returns and will obviously hardly ever be open. I can return the new ones, but it sounds like the jury’s out. Hey, you mentioned Nibco as American made. Didn’t know that. I try to get Apollo ball valves but sometimes just the cheaper imported ones, but if possible sometimes spring for the Made in USA’s if available.
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Watts is fine.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
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@leonz great question. A tech with a lot of experience who came to assess my leaking boiler just threw that out there about putting in quarter turns along with other helpful advice about DIYing the replacement boiler so I just ordered them when I ordered all the other parts. Trigger happy, I guess. You’re right, they’re not leaking, and from this thread it looks like there’s no clear advantage either way and from what I understand I could repack if necessary without draining the system so why pay $88 for something I don’t need. I’ll probably return them to Supplyhouse and pay shipping and feel stupid for only about 5 minutes.
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globe valves are great for boiler drains, easy to repair with standard parts
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Does the stem rise when you open and close them? I think that is a globe valve where the stem just screws straight in and the seat is at the end where the connection is. You can look in the hose connection with a light to see what type of valve it is.
In that application i would just use an npt valve then you can easily replace it if it fails.
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