Looking to replace my old 110 volt thermostat

Steve27

This is my York Heat 110 volt thermostat, for my York Heat boiler. Does anyone make a replacement for it? And if not, can I lubricate it with a little WD40?

Jamie Hall

You can probably get it working again — if you want to and if you can figure out why it isn't doing what you want it to do. Those things are pretty darn simple.

So… the question is, what is it doing (or not doing) that you want to fix?

But in answer to the question — 110 volt rated thermostats are quite commonly available. They don't usually have the "smarts" of the newer fancy thermostats — but there are ways to adapt those newer ones to work, too. What is it you need to do?

Steve27

It's not as sensitive as it used to be; thus, the temperature range from on to off is too wide (yes I have tried to adjust it using the internal mechanism). Will this one work:

WHITE RODGERS 152-9 ROOM THERMOSTAT OPEN ON RISE 55-85°F DIFF 2°F

Jamie Hall

Yes — but what are you controlling? That one may be overkill…

mattmia2

Looks like it might be a rebranded 40's or early 50's honeywell.

Steve27

"LINE VOLTAGE THERMOSTATS FOR HEATING
For Control of Most Line Voltage Heating Applications without Use
of Relays or Motor Starters
FEATURES
• “Summer” dial position (152-9 model)
• Heavy gauge steel case – Mounts on vertical 2” x 4” box or flush to wall.
• Hydraulic action element – Unaffected by motion – No leveling required.
• Dustproof case."

Looks like it meets my minimum requirements. Am I missing something?

mattmia2

Are you positive that is 120v?

mattmia2

Look in ot if it has settings for a heat anticipator or cyucles per hour. Those stats are typically for electric heat which usually is set up with high cucyles per hour. If it is cast iron radiation or steam you want a low number of cycles per hour. If it is hot water baseboard it can be a bit higher cycles per hour but still less than electric resistance.

HomerJSmith

Look at electric baseboard heating products as they have and use high voltage thermostats. You can convert your high voltage thermostat with a 24Vac thermostat with a little bit of re-wiring and a fan control relay.

Don't use WD40 original. Use a silicone based product that is safe for rubber and plastics.

WD-40 Specialist 11 oz. Silicone, Quick-Drying Lubricant with Smart Straw Spray is O.K.

www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Silicone-Quick-Drying-Lubricant-with-Smart-Straw-Spray-300012/204500174

Steve27

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1820186#Comment_1820186

Inside the cover it says:

Model 100D

Rating: 3 Amp. 115 V. 1/4 HP

Steve27

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1820187#Comment_1820187

It's a hot water baseboard system. Other than the burner, it's about 75 years old.

ethicalpaul

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1820317#Comment_1820317

OK that's the rating, but is that the signal that's being applied to it? Are you able to measure the voltage on the two wires with a multimeter?

Jamie Hall

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1820331#Comment_1820331

What is this thermostat connected to in the basement???

EdTheHeaterMan

If your original York Heater is there then your thermostat is probably operating the circulator pump without a relay. If you have a newer heater, then your thermostat may be operating a 24 VAC operating system. That is why folks are asking "What does it operate?"

Can you take a photo of the heater from about 10 to 12 feet back se we cam see the heater and pipes from floor to ceiling?

HVACNUT

Is it mounted to a junction box, or are the wires coming directly out of the wall? It doesn't seem to be Gem Box dimension.

If it is in a Gem Box, Lux makes digital 120/240 volt thermostats.

Steve27

Here are pictures of the unit. I included a picture of the aquastat because that's where all the wiring goes in/out. There are NO transformers or relays.

Jamie Hall

My goodness. That has seen some years of service. If the wires on the aquastat are any clue, and I rather think they are, you are switching 120 volts, not 24 volts. As @HVACNUT says, Lux makes a good line of 120/240 volt thermostats, which is what you are going to want.

Now. Notice I said you are switching 120 volts. Do not even THINK of working on that — like swapping in a new thermostat — without killing power to the whole unit and verifying, with a non-contact voltage tester (big box or Amazon) , that the lines you are playing with are truly dead. We like to keep our forum participants alive and happy…

HomerJSmith

Like this. It's what I use.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Digital-Dual-Range-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-with-LED-Flashlight-12-1000V-AC-NCVT-3PR/312665549#overlay