Ecobee pro rebooting

HeatingN00b

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1815427#Comment_1815427

Ok......

A few questions (sorry if it's a newbie question in advance).

1. What do you call this wire head / crimper (need to buy a few to make the changes).
2. Do I remove the jumper board?
3. So base on the diagram. The transformer black will need to be plugged into the red wire as well right (instead of the black as it is now)?

Thank you.

HeatingN00b

Hummmm.....

So the red is the problem. Is there a way to test the red wire with the multimeter to make sure it's live?

Should I put it on voltage and red prob on red wire and black on black wire? What should I get in the reading?

EdTheHeaterMan

You need to open the junction box at the other end of the MC cable wire (the box with the switch on the front of the boiler) and see where the red wire is connected.

Open that cover and take some pictures of all the connections in there. With the circuit breaker to the burner circuit off. you can pull the wires out so they are not all scrunched up. That will make it easier to see what is connected to what.

HeatingN00b

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1815421#Comment_1815421

Is there a way to test to see if the red wire is live?

Setting the multimeter on voltage and testing the red and the back? Or the red and white?

What should it show?

HeatingN00b

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1815437#Comment_1815437

This is what it's inside of the switch box. Red wire goes into the switch and it ends there.

It's coming from the box on the side.

This is the video

https://imgur.com/a/o1fEzAe

HeatingN00b

This is the side box (not the front switch box).

Jamie Hall

Look. Before you get a nasty surprise, or worse, get yourself a non-contact voltage tester like this one (the one I use… all the time…)

Klein Tools NCVT1P Voltage Tester, Non-Contact Low Voltage Tester Pen, 50V to 1000V AC, Audible and Flashing LED Alarms, Pocket Clip - Amazon.com

and use it to find out which wires are carrying hot (have voltage different from ground) power and which are really neutrals or grounds. It may be that the red wire isn't connected to anything to power it. It may be connected to the other side of a 120/240 circuit. It may be connected to the black side of a 120 circuit (in which case it should have bad a black band on it).

EdTheHeaterMan

WOW… You got a lot going on here the primary control has a Limil/L1 jumper that is going to be confusing things.

This is one reason there is confusion because that Jumper is not on the WM SGO wiring diagram as it is shown in the book. No wonder this is confusing

The original thought was that your low voltage connections are wrong.

Then you asked about the Ecobee Power Extender, and I said you already own what you need.

Then I find that your transformer from the Beckett 51950U kit was wired to a limit wire that will drop out during normal operation.

Then I said you need to find a wire that you don't have because the original installer didn't use the burner wiring harness that it shows on the diagram.

After all this…. piece by piece…. I got your answer. Don't change any wires on the boiler at all. Leave everything the way it is.

This is your Ecobee wiring that you need.

If you have any questions PM me and I will go over this in real time when we both have time

EdTheHeaterMan

Update on this post. The final diagram where the transformer was moved to the box on the right side of the boiler where the power entered before any of the limits were connected did solve the problem and @HeatingN00b's Steamer is running great. No reboots from the Ecobee detected in the last 48 hours.

Thanks to @Jamie Hall for sticking with this until we got to the big picture. Just wanted to let you know the outcome.