Leaking flange taco

hankwylerjr

I replaced the seals twice they were well seated second set lasted 4 weeks now another leak. Told customer I’d replace all that rusted out material under the flange he doesn’t have the cash maybe just replace bottom flange try to get that lose will be difficult I sprayed blaster on it today will try tomorrow afternoon question the seals pop in the groove but are the red gaskets better on a limited budget disabled elder trying to do best I can on price thx in advance

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Jamie Hall

The mating surfaces — before the seals are put in place and tightened up — must be really clean and flat, the grooves for the seals must also be really clean, and the whole thing must line up and pull together evenly. Not just the chunky rust — try to get down to nice shiny clean metal everywhere.

The bolts will hold it together, yes — but they won't be able to compensate for any unevenness or high spots, and the seals aren't meant to bridge gaps.

Larry Weingarten

Hi, I like to use a flat file for this sort of work, but if it just isn't feasible to get a completely flat, clean surface that way, I've had good luck with a little silicon sealant spread thin on the surfaces. That "cheap fix" can hold up a long time.

Yours, Larry

hankwylerjr

@Jamie Hall @Larry Weingarten I have already used my angle grinder and polished the surface to a like-new appearance. Im concerned that there is pitting or something possibly with a hairline crack. It was doing great and about a month later started leaking the seals were seated in the grooves properly and everything was lined up perfectly Im very surprised its now leaking. I think that at minimum the bottom flange must be changed out my worry is that everything is seized up and rusted this boiler is 50 years old and it's Any advice on repairs after what Ive just told you please lmk. Id love to rebuild it but can't he just is on a fixed income thx

EdTheHeaterMan

In your case, I would use the Red Rubber full face gasket. Clean the surface with a good wire brush on the end of a drill, File the old flange as flat as you can to remove any high spots as @Jamie Hall suggested. Trying to get all the way down where metal is missing may be difficult. To fill in any low spots, I like Permatex Gasket Cement painted on the flange surface and the pump surface. then place the gasket in place and tighten the bolts evenly so the gasket mates to the surfaces evenly.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant-16-oz/

hot_rod

what oressure us the system running? Should be under 20 psi

hankwylerjr

@hot_rod

Jamie Hall

Not surprisingly, @EdTheHeaterMan 's method works — I've used it on some pretty gnarly pitted flange surfaces in automotive work (but not head gaskets!)

hankwylerjr

@EdTheHeaterMan thx this is what I think I need is that the red sealant in the can? Im hoping this does the trick because everything is basically one rusted unit now so everything will need to be replaced below that bottom flange ps I second those full face gaskets as they have proved to be more forgiving then the other little rubber seals that come with it that fit into the grooves.

EdTheHeaterMan

You may be able to just polish up all the rusted pipe and fittings after you replace the gaskets (or gasket and lower flange). I thing the gasket leaks and the other pipe joints are just fine. You may be able to get a good size flat file to make those mating surfaces flat.

pecmsg

Those flanges are fairly cheap and look bad. I'd consider replacing them.

That ell behind the pump doesn't look really good either!

Got a picture from further back showing all the piping.