Rough opening garage door question

electronictofu

Hey all,

My garage door won't arrive for several weeks but I am doing some final framing to have everything ready. There was a garage door here before, it was covered for a guest room, so the originally framing is pretty close, if not spot on. Just making sure before I cut trim.

It's a 8' wide by 7' tall door.

The instructions online say

■ Rough opening (minus stop mold) = same size as door.

So, does that quite simply mean left to right the opening should be exactly 8'? I've seen some outer framing overlap the door 1/2" or so, I was looking at some neighbors installs and trying to copy that.

Lastly, is an 8' wide door, truly 8' or are there any funky odd ways these companies measure doors that strays from the advertised measurement?

Thanks!

HVACNUT

This isn't a carpentry forum, but maybe someone here knows.

Mad Dog_2

Each man/woman to their trade. I never tried or wanted to know THAT much about other trades unless it affected my work. That being said, someone will know that information....standby...Good Luck Mad Dog 🐕

GroundUp

I've always made the RO 1-2" smaller than the door itself. Sometimes the doors are slightly larger than advertised, but a typical off-the-shelf door is as advertised. Wind and precipitation can easily sneak through by doing them the same size, so I prefer the overlap.

HVACNUT

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1806529#Comment_1806529

Agreed. You do NOT want to see me swing a hammer. I'm pathetic. I always lost at Whack-A-Mole.

Intplm.

Best to double-check those online specs by contacting the door manufacturer directly first. Sometimes door manufacturers' specs are subject to change without notice as some may state in the fine print.

PC7060

Typically the listed garage door size is the size of the door and will be 1-2" wider and taller than opening given the rail mounts against inside wall of garage.

electronictofu

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1806534#Comment_1806534

That's what I was thinking, that's all I needed, I appreciate all the feedback! You all rock.

mattmia2

Between adding another piece of 1x or 2x trim and the stop/weatherstrip you could probably shrink it down about 6" without it looking weird.

PC7060

just put a tape measure on my 16’ x 7’ garage door. Both the door and the opening are 16x7. The trim that came with door is 1/2” (both sides) so 1” less on side and 1/2”.
Plus gaskets of 1” so finished opening between 1 to 1-1/2” less than door size.

hot_rod

find some nice straight 2x6 or 8 for those side pieces that the track mounts to.

Are. You putting an opener on it? I got the type that mounts on the shaft instead of the long chain type. It is fast and super quiet and keeps the shop ceiling less cluttered.

Jamie Hall

May I make a suggestion? Of course almost all the work I do involves much older houses, but… I never do a rough opening or anything like that until I have the door or window on-site and I've looked it over…

mattmia2

Use pressure treated and put the factory end on the ground for the sides of the opening.

Mad Dog_2

Installing ANY doors take a lot of skill and experience. Mad Dog 🐕

ethicalpaul

Mad Dog is so right. I think doors are one of the most underestimated aspects of any construction project but I may be biased having worked for a door manufacturer for 17 years. My advice is don't try to second guess the manufacturer—whatever they call for for R.O. make that be your R.O.

hot_rod

Don't make the opening any smaller than necessary, 7' isn't a very tall opening for vehicles that may get racks on them for skis or cargo hauling. Be sure the opening is plumb, level and square so the door covers the opening with the least amount of opening reduction.