Need to Replace my steam boiler in my 1871 two family
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The Question: What are affordable ways for me to replace an old steam boiler. Fix the broken system, modify the existing system, or replace it with an alternative system.
The Background: I had many issues with my boiler through the winter season and felt that it was likely on its way out based on input from my hvac brother. I just had it serviced and the tech said the same. My brother recommended mini splits as that's basically all he does. An uncle in the trade suggested just replacing the boiler as it would be the most cost effective option or retrofitting the system to use water instead of steam. My brother is adamant about the rebates if I go with heat pumps but I've heard that they do not work well in real cold weather which has me reconsidering as I live in MA and do not have a well insulated house.
TLDR: Need to replace old steam boiler in an even older house. What are the most affordable options open to me.
Comments
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Find someone that knows steam well like @New England SteamWorks to figure out what other people have done to the system and make it work correctly. Unless someone really destroyed it fixing it will be the least expensive option. Make sure if you look at other options that you are looking at pricing for quality work for the other options. There is a decent chance that you don't need a new boiler if someone that understands steam looks at it. Converting steam to hot water is rarely a good idea but repairing the steam is usually relatively easy for someone that understands it.
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As noted, your least expensive option will be to replace the boiler — if it actually does need replacing — and restore the steam system to good condition. Depending on where you are in Massachusetts, there are a few really good people to work with — @New England SteamWorks is one, of @Charlie from wmass in the western wilderness (anywhere west of I 495, really).
Heat pumps sound so attractive, but if your temperatures drop into single digits or below zero they might keep you vaguely warm, if you get a cold temperature one, but the electric bills will make you cry. They are fine for supplemental and shoulder season heat. Not for the heavy lifting.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England4 -
Eliteyager: you have Two excellent choices there for installing contractors. I vouch for their fine work. Good Luck, Mad Dog 🐕
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I'm just south of Boston in a 100 year old home a block off the bay. I had a heat pump installed in 2016 and use it on moderately cold days to heat my first floor. It saves a little money but when the NE wind starts to blow I'm glad to have the steam as a backup.
If I were in a new tight house with good insulation it would be a different story.
Bob
Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge1 -
HVAC guys and Heating techs are generally well versed in forced hot air and hydronic water systems as well as mini-splits and heat pumps. Steam is a lost art and is a very niche sub-specialty.
Like others have said, you need a specialist to properly diagnose your system. The two companies mentioned above are some of the best in the business. New England Steamworks services my boiler and I have nothing but the highest respect for them.
Some food for thought from someone that was in a similar situation as yours.
I bought my uninsulated house in MA in 2007. The boiler was installed in 1980. Had it checked out by the local HVAC techs and they all told me it needed to be replaced. It didn't heat so well and was costing me a fortune. I did some homework and realized it was just very poorly maintained. I had radiator leaks, a finicky LWCO, uninsulated pipes, and a very poorly placed thermostat. Some of the radiators didn't heat well or barely at all.
The basement was 90+ degrees and the small, isolated room with the thermostat was warm but the rest of the house was freezing. Because of all this the HVAC companies deemed my system "too far gone" and needed to be replaced.
I insulated the pipes in the basement and the temps went down dramatically. My LWCO had a sticky float from lack of blow-downs so I cleaned it out. I flushed the Coca-Cola colored mud out of my boiler numerous times and it was already operating dramatically better. I fixed my leaking radiators and replaced the radiator vents and it was a night and day difference.
I moved the thermostat to a central location on the first floor and what would you know…the house was now mostly evenly warm again!
New England Steamworks did a great tune up to the boiler, cleaned it out and gave it a great bill of health. It now operated like a brand new heating system! When I moved in it cost me $500+ per month for heat (in 2007 dollars), barely maintaining 60 degrees….and now in 2024 I pay maybe $250 per month in the worst months easily maintaining 70 degrees.
The same boiler is still installed and I'm told it is still in great shape. No signs of it slowing down. It is 44 years old and as efficient as a brand new one!
Moral of the story…. have a specialist properly diagnose your system, it may not be as bad as you think!
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Yoda...now imagine if you took that guy...UNNECESSARY new boiler...doing the same thing. Unfortunately, most H.O s wrongly assume a new boiler = Improved total system. Mad Dog 🐕
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@Mad Dog_2….Exactly! My 44 year old Peerless operates at 80% plus efficiency, pretty much the same as a brand new one! I've added an automatic vent damper and added a Vaporstat in addition to the Pressuretrol over the years, but thats it!
Knowing what I know now I a properly sized new boiler would likely save me some money as I'm about 150% oversized and my near boiler piping isn't exactly correct. But I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
At worst if I had a new boiler installed back in 2007 it probably would have been even more oversized since most HVAC installers don't bother with EDR calculations and tend to install the next size up boiler "just in case".
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The trouble with the word replace is it does not always mean "improved", or even equal and in some cases worse.
The smart people, the wise people are starting to peel back the curtains and find the hype and claims are often distorted and when "all", "not some"; but "all the factors" are considered. The better way is often to step back and get the right people involved. WE may not all be experts but this site sure has a lot of good knowledge and experience. A true testament to the saying; "We are better together than apart".
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I second what Lance has said and what mad dog has said suggesting @New England SteamWorks and @Charlie from wmass.
Was this person a steam licensed boiler plumber or an oil company burner service person?
You do not need anyone selling you a heat pump as your steam system may just need a few repairs, cleaning the sump free of mud, and perhaps new vents to balance the system and perhaps a double drop header later to make dry steam which will heat the 2 family home more effectively by creating dry steam that will heat the radiators faster and make them hold the heat longer because the steam is dry and holds more heat to heat the pipes and radiators which will make the radiators hotter so the heat that delivered to them will them last longer and radiate more slowly if they are properly balanced.
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I'm not as young as i once was and Moving the 14,000 BTU window shaker was no longer doable by myself so I had a 12'000 BTU heat pump installed in 2016 to cool the first floor. This unit also heats the first floor in the shoulder seasons.
I lesgy the steam right where it was and use it when if hets down to the mid 20's when the heat pump can't keep up with the heat needs. Thias house isa over 100 years old and I would not trust a heat pump to work as well at cold temperatures.
I agree Charlie or NE Steamworks are your best choices when it comes to steam.
Bob
Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge1
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