"Spin Weld" PVC Pipe & Fittings?

RickDelta

I'm looking at the socket depth and fit to the pipe.
The socket is 3/4" deep.
When inserting the pipe into the socket, I was amazed to find that the pipe doesn't make a "PVC to PVC" contact until your only 1/4" away from the bottom stop!

..... so using either cement or spin weld , that's the only "PVC" fusion area there is! : (

RickDelta

DCContrarian said:

RickDelta said:

hot_rod said:

Doesn't the mesh interfere with the spin weld surfaces?

No! ...... unlike the "butt" joint type ... the friction is on the outside of the pipe wall.
.

How do you guarantee it doesn't bottom out in the fitting?

....... the screen?? I want it to!

During the pipe to fitting assembly, the screen edges are further entrapped tighty against the internal end stops within the socket itself.

RickDelta

That black horizontal line is 3/4" of an inch from the inserted pipe end.
Its resting (first pvc to pvc contact) 1/4" from bottom stop in the socket.





This is the screen seated against the socket stop

ratio

RickDelta said:

ChrisJ said:

I saw the picture, didn't know what I was looking at. 

In-between the arrows is the spin weld joint!!

I also take a 2" schedule 80 PVC pipe and expand its diameter to 4" schedule 40 as a sewer lateral repair liner.
It then it becomes MO-PVC (Molecularly Oriented-PVC)

I gotta say, I'm tempted to have you line our sewer line just to watch it working.

How far away from central Ohio are you?

HomerJSmith

I don't know if this helps. What I have done in the past under similar situations when inserting a screen into a hub is this. I cut a 1/4" wide piece of pipe and push it into the pipe against the screen without any cement. Then I glue the pipe into the hub. The 1/4" piece of pipe keeps the glue from filling the screen. I guess, if you wanted the screen more secure, you could melt the screen into the 1/4" piece before pushing it into the hub.
Experiment to find which solution works best for you.

RickDelta

ratio said:

RickDelta said:

ChrisJ said:

I saw the picture, didn't know what I was looking at. 

In-between the arrows is the spin weld joint!!

I also take a 2" schedule 80 PVC pipe and expand its diameter to 4" schedule 40 as a sewer lateral repair liner.
It then it becomes MO-PVC (Molecularly Oriented-PVC)

I gotta say, I'm tempted to have you line our sewer line just to watch it working.

How far away from central Ohio are you?

"How far away from central Ohio are you?"

Bristol , PA

...... I have to laugh at the advertised so called "No-Dig" sewer liner repair service when the first thing that shows up at your property is a backhoe!! : ) (they have to dig a 4' x 4' x 5' deep hole to remove the sewer trap)

My system is truly a No Dig system ........ the new liner is threaded down the yard sewer lateral clean-out then expanded tight against they existing lateral!

If the cracked lateral has ground water infiltration into the lateral, you can't use their system (It washes away the epoxy resin glue from the fiberglass liner tube sock)

I have a "wet" liner version that basically has an inflatable rubber tube that is air expanded against the damaged lateral and seals any water infiltration during the PVC liner installation prosses.

Instead of 10 guys and a backhoe ....... one plumber and a helper! : )

RickDelta

HomerJSmith said:

I don't know if this helps. What I have done in the past under similar situations when inserting a screen into a hub is this. I cut a 1/4" wide piece of pipe and push it into the pipe against the screen without any cement. Then I glue the pipe into the hub. The 1/4" piece of pipe keeps the glue from filling the screen. I guess, if you wanted the screen more secure, you could melt the screen into the 1/4" piece before pushing it into the hub.
Experiment to find which solution works best for you.

I found by embedding (heating) the stainless steel screen into the pipe stub end .... it keeps the screen out of harms way during the joint assembly.

The screen melted into the PVC makes an extremely strong seal.

RickDelta

"@HomerJSmith"

"I cut a 1/4" wide piece of pipe and push it into the pipe against the screen without any cement."

This is a pressure application.
As I've shown in posts above this, The PVC to PVC weld is only 1/4" at the bottom of the socket.
Your suggestion would leave a 100% cement bond only (No PVC to PVC welding)

HomerJSmith

I have a plastic welder that I bought at Harbor Freight and an assortment of plastic rods that I got on Amazon to do some plastic welding. Dry fitting a PVC pipe into a hub and then welding the hub to the pipe with a PVC welding stick might be a solution depending upon your needs. No need to spin the assembly. Most all sections of plastic Nat gas lines are welded together in this manner. My observation. Maybe they spin welded it (20' sections), I didn't look to closely when they laid new gas line on my street.

ChrisJ

This is the welder I use at the shop.

I get to use it from time to time and it's what I used to make the secondary condensate pan for my airhandler out of PVC. I know my plastic welds aren't the best, but they get the job done.

RickDelta

ChrisJ said:

This is the welder I use at the shop. I get to use it from time to time and it's what I used to make the secondary condensate pan for my airhandler out of PVC. I know my plastic welds aren't the best, but they get the job done.

Utube "spin welding plastic tanks".


....  you can do that in literally 4 seconds!!

No external material or heat!

Does a perfect weld.

HomerJSmith

Nice job, ChrisJ.