Weil Mclean EG/PEG 504 Steam Boiler not working

ecwilson4 · January 8

Hi All, hoping anyone can help with my situation:

-Moved into house 3 weeks ago

-Gas was turned off during inspection, so plumber came back ( we were not here) and got boiler fired up and sent video, but no instructions

-We have Forced Air and aux steam heat (live in new jersey)

-The boiler will not fire, the pilot wasn't lighting either so replaced thermocouple and cleaned up with shop vac- pilot is lit and stays lit now

-i "reset" the boiler by turning emergency switch on/off, and same for breaker and switch on boiler

-i tried to "Jump start" by connecting red/white wires manually on Ecobee thermostat. i also spoke directly with ecobee and they suggested re-wiring on thermostat- neither worked.

Worth noting, last week my genius father in law came over and thought he should turn on and leave on the water that feeds the boiler. this caused leaking throughout the pipes and radiators. i drained the boiler and then refilled to appropriate levels. what other checks can i do on my own? should i just give and have it serviced? would love fix on my own.

Thanks!
Eric

ecwilson4 · January 8

KC_Jones · January 8

I'd speculate the pressuretrol is water logged and making it think there is pressure in the system that isn't there. A bit of a long shot, but given the overfill condition I'd be inclined to start there.

You would need to disassemble the pressuretrol from it's pigtail and make sure everything is clear, then reinstall and try again.

ecwilson4 · January 8

ecwilson4 · January 8

ecwilson4 · January 8

ecwilson4 · January 8

KC_Jones said:
I'd speculate the pressuretrol is water logged and making it think there is pressure in the system that isn't there. A bit of a long shot, but given the overfill condition I'd be inclined to start there.

You would need to disassemble the pressuretrol from it's pigtail and make sure everything is clear, then reinstall and try again.

thank you, could i rule this out if pressure gauge is showing nothing?

JUGHNE · January 8

After lighting the pilot did you turn the gas valve to the "on" position?

ecwilson4 · January 8

JUGHNE said:
After lighting the pilot did you turn the gas valve to the "on" position?

i did, yes

JUGHNE · January 8

If you take the cover off of the pressure control and manually move the switch to see if boiler starts.
Flue damper should operate first.

If that brings it alive then the pressure control may have gunk in it keeping it off.

Jamie Hall · January 8

You mention "appropriate level". I can't see the sight glass in the picture, but what is the level in the sight glass? Should be about half way up.

And could I ask what the circulator pump does?

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 8

the pressure control cold have a plugged or partially plugged pigtail. Overfilling the boiler and then draining will not affect the pressure control or flood it. It has water in it on every steam cycle.

I can see the water level in the gauge glass looks about 7/8 full. The circulator pump is for a hot water heating zone or an indirect water heater.

ecwilson4 · January 8

Jamie Hall said:
You mention "appropriate level". I can't see the sight glass in the picture, but what is the level in the sight glass? Should be about half way up.

And could I ask what the circulator pump does?

right about halfway up, maybe a bit more-- circulator pump is not functioning, i believe it was for baseboard heat that is no longer.

appreciate all the help so far, i was in NYC for 15 years renting before this, so very early in my DIY stage. trying to make my father proud!

109A_5 · January 8

Hello @ecwilson4,
I would take the cover off the pressuretrol and temporary jumper the terminals that the wires are connected to. It looks like the pressuretrol is set to minimum, it may have been tweaked by the pressure of the over-filled water and is not resetting properly. If so maybe just set the Cut-In up a hair.

ecwilson4 · January 8

109A_5 said:
Hello @ecwilson4,
I would take the cover off the pressuretrol and temporary jumper the terminals that the wires are connected to. It looks like the pressuretrol is set to minimum, it may have been tweaked by the pressure of the over-filled water and is not resetting properly. If so maybe just set the Cut-In up a hair.

thanks, if i jumper the terminals, whatd result should i be looking for? boiler firing? power on or off to boiler while doing this? Sorry, very much a novice here.

109A_5 · January 8

Hello @ecwilson4,
If everything else is set and good to go, and the pressuretrol is the issue jumpering the terminals the boiler should fire.

ethicalpaul · January 8

Jamie Hall said:
You mention "appropriate level". I can't see the sight glass in the picture, but what is the level in the sight glass? Should be about half way up.

And could I ask what the circulator pump does?

It seems to be about 1" below the top valve

ecwilson4 · January 8

109A_5 said:
Hello @ecwilson4,
If everything else is set and good to go, and the pressuretrol is the issue jumpering the terminals the boiler should fire.

touched the wires with the power off as well as on and nothing!

ethicalpaul · January 8

If you can test continuity, see if the terminals show continuity between them when the boiler is off

ecwilson4 · January 8

ethicalpaul said:
If you can test continuity, see if the terminals show continuity between them when the boiler is off

thanks, unfortunately don't have the tools for that. should i try cleaning out the pigtail or is that moot knowing i couldn't jump start?

Jamie Hall · January 8

If it won't start with T-T on the control jumped and the pressure switch controls shorted, something else is the problem...

ecwilson4 · January 8

just realized i didnt "jump" anything, right? i just took the panel off and touched the two wires. to jump, i would have to use another source of power like lower water cut off?

i think i'm going to give in, have service call for 6pm tonight- ill let you all know what happens. thanks very much for the help!

ethicalpaul · January 8

No...if you touched those two wires together, you "jumped" across where the pressuretrol was, and if the pressuretrol was the only thing keeping you from firing up, it would have fired up. The test as described is valid

The pressuretrol is simply a switch that "opens" or turns itself off when the pressure is too high (if it's operating correctly)

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 8

Well the pressure control is not going to work at all the way it is now. You removed the long screw that you adjust the pressure setting with. This will make the pressure control inoperative. You need to put that screw in.

When you do jump the wires together the boiler will not fire until the flue damper opens. Check and see if the damper shaft moves.

DO NOT run this boiler without a operating pressure control

JUGHNE · January 8

Did you hold the wires together for at least 5 seconds. The flue damper motor must operate first and there may be a short delay before that responds.

Also there is another remote possibility; on the rear left of the boiler where the fumes leave the boiler is a reset switch. A small button that has 2 wires connected. If by some chance the flue is plugged and exhaust rolls out that thermo disc will trip.

I see you have the long screw out of the pressure control. Is the control is adjusted too low the linkage will fall apart and not turn the switch on. Was that screw out or did you remove it.

ecwilson4 · January 8

JUGHNE said:
Did you hold the wires together for at least 5 seconds. The flue damper motor must operate first and there may be a short delay before that responds.

Also there is another remote possibility; on the rear left of the boiler where the fumes leave the boiler is a reset switch. A small button that has 2 wires connected. If by some chance the flue is plugged and exhaust rolls out that thermo disc will trip.

I see you have the long screw out of the pressure control. Is the control is adjusted too low the linkage will fall apart and not turn the switch on. Was that screw out or did you remove it.

i removed the screw as it also holds the front plate/casing- i put it back together with the screw into the spring

ecwilson4 · January 8

update- i finally got the real estate agent to send me the plumber's contact who did the "inspection". He jump started the boiler and recommended i get a new separate thermostat as the Ecobee is a "problem". i have a tech coming over tonight which now feels like a waste of money knowing its simply a thermostat issue.

ethicalpaul · January 8

You don't remove that long screw to remove the cover. You leave it in place

ecwilson4 · January 9

another update, plumber no showed and its freezing in here (have 5 month old)

which of these wires from the thermostat would jump start? I suppose i can call the plumber who did the "inspection" tomorrow, but hoping to get some warmth this evening. also, should i have power off to the boiler when doing this? thanks again all

109A_5 · January 9

Hello @ecwilson4,
Since you may have broken the Pressuretrol, a safety device, by removing the cover incorrectly, now you want to bypass the thermostat ?

It may be a lot safer spending the night at a motel.

Jamie Hall · January 9

Good grief. You have a non-functional pressuretrol -- a primary safety device -- and you still want to run the boiler? No. No way. No how.

ecwilson4 · January 9

Not sure how many times I can state I’m a novice! Thanks

ecwilson4 · January 10

update:

HVAC tech was here for 4 hours and we ended up with him adding a new thermostat to just control the boiler. heat pump is off for now, we are solely heating the house with radiators/steam heat- short term solution to ensure we dont freeze

However, now the 2nd/3rd floor (finished attic) get up to 77 degrees through the night while the first floor stays to the set 68-70.

seems like the best solution is to find an expert with ecobee or buy new smart thermostat. i suppose we could also leave the thermostat he installed to just control boiler, and re-install ecobee to just control heat pump? if my wife complains one more time im going to lose it!

ethicalpaul · January 10

By what route is the heat getting to the attic? Through an open stairwell? Via radiators in the attic? Other venting? Or just conducting through the floor? Some of those you can control better than others

ecwilson4 · January 10

ethicalpaul said:
By what route is the heat getting to the attic? Through an open stairwell? Via radiators in the attic? Other venting? Or just conducting through the floor? Some of those you can control better than others

radiators, the attic is actually comfortable- its the second floor where we sleep that is getting very hot

KC_Jones · January 10

ecwilson4 said:

ethicalpaul said:
By what route is the heat getting to the attic? Through an open stairwell? Via radiators in the attic? Other venting? Or just conducting through the floor? Some of those you can control better than others
radiators, the attic is actually comfortable- its the second floor where we sleep that is getting very hot

A thermostat won't change any of that. You have a balance issue and that is all about the venting on the mains and the radiators.

ethicalpaul · January 10

OK, look at the venting rate of the vents on your 2nd floor radiators. You want to slow them down (assuming your radiators have one pipe). Or you can put a blanket over a too-hot radiator and it will greatly reduce its...radiation--a very easy and adjustable method that I think not enough people consider.

Also, is your forced air system heating that area too?

ecwilson4 · January 10

thank you @ethicalpaul i greatly appreciate all of your help and solutions!!

ecwilson4 · January 10

and no, the forced air system is completely off as of yesterday

ethicalpaul · January 10

My pleasure. If you take pictures of the existing vents on the too-hot radiators, we can suggest alternatives

Weil Mclean EG/PEG 504 Steam Boiler not working

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