Spud removal, cut the thread. Am I sunk?

StuckOnSteam

realliveplumber

That looks pretty deep.

I would clean and dry the threads, and try expando.

If that doesnt work, an anaerobic gel.

mattmia2

Steam or hot water? Steam is a lot less pressure. Lampwick and dope or even rtv might get you there. You have another chance to cut out and replace the bushing too.

steamaffinity

Try the bock as specified in this video along with lampwick, teflon tape and dope. Also another thing is to give time to cure as it might not be able to take pressure immediately. 

https://youtu.be/-yGRgv2flfs?si=ZuNKQxu_vJFtOatZ

dko

I did the same on one of my steam radiators at home long time ago. epoxied the cut area, re-tapped after it hardened. Used fasseal ats anaerobic sealant and going strong 6 years.

StuckOnSteam

mattmia2 said:

Steam or hot water? Steam is a lot less pressure. Lampwick and dope or even rtv might get you there. You have another chance to cut out and replace the bushing too.

Steam. Thank you very much for the help! 

StuckOnSteam

On a side note, is it possible that a replacement nut and tailpiece has differing sizes? The radiator connection appears to be 1” and the mating nut seems to be 1.25”. 

JohnNY

That's a bushing. Keep cutting and get that out too. Start fresh in the radiator threads.

StuckOnSteam

StuckOnSteam said:

On a side note, is it possible that a replacement nut and tailpiece has differing sizes? The radiator connection appears to be 1” and the mating nut seems to be 1.25”. 

To clarify, my current setup seems to have differing sizes 

StuckOnSteam

JohnNY said:

That's a bushing. Keep cutting and get that out too. Start fresh in the radiator threads.

I don’t know if I can be trusted after this fiasco. Thanks for the help! 

JohnNY

That's not 1.25" it's a proprietary thread and not a pipe size. Yeah, you may be better served having a seasoned plumber take care of this.

mattmia2

The spud is matched to the valve, if you replace the spud you have to replace the valve with the one that came with it. They aren't standardized.

StuckOnSteam

mattmia2 said:

The spud is matched to the valve, if you replace the spud you have to replace the valve with the one that came with it. They aren't standardized.

Ah, I see. That makes sense. Was hoping to replace the tail and nut only, but this makes much more sense 

Mad Dog_2

On steam, with Lamp wick and Permatex its usually fine. On Hot water heating also usually works.  A deep cut on domestic Water thread, can be a problem because you can't use Permatex on drinking water. That being said, we were on on overnight tie  in at a very Large New York Post Office hub about 15 years ago.  I plunged too deep in to a 3" Brass Female thread..Lamp wick, tons of  White Teflon Paste on male & female (don't tell the plumbing code police) worked in the  threads and some good Teflon tape where make thread meets the face of female thread, killed it!  Never leaked!   As Johnny NY says, you can also remove that decorative bushing.  Mad Dog 🐕 

gerry gill

I use Permatex high temp gasket maker to seal pipe thread cuts.

New England SteamWorks

We've done this a bunch of times, and it's never as bad as it looks. I would put some extra dope in the cut, then dope both ends real good, and give it a shot before getting too carried away with other remedies. It will likely be fine. Next option would be to remove the bushing (though those old bushings are cast and very difficult to sawzall through, requiring many blades), and change the complete valve.

CTETeach

Low pressure steam you can probably get away with a good pipe dope and several wraps with high quality Teflon tape. Lamp wicking may also be helpful but may not be necessary.
Good luck, next time don't use a Sawzall use a hacksaw blade and handle.

retiredguy

Looking at the picture you posted, it does not look as bad as you assume it is. If you have cut too deeply into the first bushing you may have to go to the next bushing but be very careful. Any time you are cutting out a bushing like yours, first use a sawzall for the first 90% of the cut then switch to a hand held saw similar to one used for drywall with a short metal cutting blade. You can feel when you cut through the bushing and into the next thread. Cut a second slot about 1/8 of the way around the bushing and knock out the piece between the cuts. You can use an ice pick or a small chisel for this. Then slowly and carefully begin to crush the remaining piece. Once it starts to move you can tap out the remaining piece just as you would turn it out normally. This cutting takes a delicate hand so do not be in a hurry to complete a task. Once you do this a few time it becomes easy but time consuming. You could always call in someone that has done this many times to do the job.

ChrisJ

New England SteamWorks said:

We've done this a bunch of times, and it's never as bad as it looks. I would put some extra dope in the cut, then dope both ends real good, and give it a shot before getting too carried away with other remedies. It will likely be fine. Next option would be to remove the bushing (though those old bushings are cast and very difficult to sawzall through, requiring many blades), and change the complete valve.

These don't seem to mind.

Charlie from wmass

If anyone sees a bushing like this check to confirm the large thread is right-hand before going any further. It is old enough to have left hand threads. The bushing could be drilled and tapped to 1 1/4" if the cut goes past the bottom of the thread groove. Then an 1 1/4" x 1" bushing is used for the new spud.  Every other suggestion for filling with a sealant is a "go with God " idea that may work but may also fail at the worst possible time. If the bushing is right-hand on both sides I would replace it. Use a hand held jab saw with a Lennox bimetal blade 18 tpi to cut it out. You will be less likely to over cut. 

tim smith

Cut it out, new bushing. Just don't cut so far in this time!

fueloilrich631

dko said:

I did the same on one of my steam radiators at home long time ago. epoxied the cut area, re-tapped after it hardened. Used fasseal ats anaerobic sealant and going strong 6 years.

I have done this as well, in regards to epoxy (JB Weld) applied pro dope and teflon tape to male thread. Worked like a charm.

JohnNY

Charlie from wmass said:

If anyone sees a bushing like this check to confirm the large thread is right-hand before going any further.

I assumed it's a L-R bushing. I've done this several times, having learned twice the hard way years ago, and went with a L-R nipple to get it back together.
I've also patched cut threads with ProPoxy20, waited a day, and ran a tap through the threads. So far so good.

Mad Dog_2

Hacksaw blade takes too long, but I will use them on a 1/2" Brass Trap spud. You can't worry about it too much except if its in an 8" Domestic Water Tank bulkhead fitting... then you gots a problem.  Fix?  I silver brazed it and rat-tail filed the thread root back in. Lots of Real-Tuff Teflon paste and quick wick    Thank God that worked!!!    Mad Dog 🐕 

mvickers

How about a large pipe nipple extractor?

AdmiralYoda

The pro's here have given you great advice on how to professionally repair it. As a homeowner here, I'd try the simplest fix first and see what happens.

Clean that cut out as best you can and smear some high temp Permatex RTV in there. Wrap the new spud with plenty of good thick Teflon tape and apply plenty of dope to the radiator threads and get it plenty tight. Let it sit for a couple days before you fire up the system.

In automotive engine applications Permatex RTV is used all over the place in higher temperatures and much higher pressures...so there is hope!

If it works...great! Might last another 50 years or could last 5 months or 5 days, who knows. If it does fail, use some of the advice above. My next shot would be to fill the cut with epoxy and then run a tap through the threads to clean it up. If that doesn't work....replace the bushing.

BTW...if you ever do this again... turn the radiator upside down first when you cut the spud. That way if you cut the threads it will be on the top of the spud. If a leak forms it will at least only be steam and condensate wont drip out, assuming it is single pipe. Your cut is more towards the side though so I doubt you'd have condensate hitting it...which is good.

Stet

Fill the threads with permatex. let it harden. The retap the threads. Do yourself a favor and get a new valve with union. Use a good thread sealant (true blue works well) All should be fine!

Grallert

Has it been said already? you'll to replace that valve as well as repair/replace that bush. I'd repair it because that's a nice looking bushing. Clean it really really well and smear some JB Weld or equivalent To just shy of the tops of the threads let set and run a tap through it. Tape and permatex to finish. That said, no one will notice if you replace the bushing like any sane person would do.

Intplm.

"Expando" for the pipe threads and that should do it.