Pressuretrol and low pressure gauge
Comments
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Send a picture of your current situation, but basically you can, instead of a pigtail, use some 1/2" nipples and fittings to make a water trap with drain plugs.
But honestly the pigtail isn't that big of a problem. Every couple years spin off the pressuretrol and blow into the pigtail to ensure it's clear.NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
You want to instal the pressure control to the chest of the boiler before the supply piping . Low pressure gauges are used with low pressure controls like a vapor stat . If your system was installed pre war , it would be recommended to determine if you have one of the low pressure systems that was installed back then . Normally you will see in higher end homes because they were expensive to install . If you have a run of the mill steam systems or if installed post WWII , just use a brass pig tail and a P404 and a normal gauge .
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Um... well... sometimes, on very low presure systems, the pressure control -- not the safety control - can be advantageously installed on a drop header, if you have one. It will be less sensitive to the bubbles and turbulence in the boiler in that locstion. But that really shouldn't be an issue unless you are working in the single ounces range.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
@Jamie Hall there is no drop header. Here is a picture. I would be curious to know what would be the best place to install it. @ethicalpaul , below is a picture.
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see picture @ethicalpaul0
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Looking at the picture, what you've got is about as good as it's going to get. Just keep the pigtails and opening into the boiler clean.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
I mostly agree with Jamie except I think this is one of those boiler manufacturers that puts the pigtail such that you can't even spin off the pressuretrol due to lack of clearance.
If this is the case you can extend it out with a short nipple and coupling.
You may have to cut the pigtail to get it off unless you want to remove the other stuff that's in the way. This is really a ludicrous setup currently but it's easily solved by extending the pigtail (or a new pigtail) out from the boiler a bit.
If you do replace the pigtail, be sure to buy a brass one not a steel one. The steel ones rust and gunk up much faster.NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
@bergensteamguy
Cut the existing pigtail off and take the cut off piece out of the boiler. Install a nipple coming out of the boiler and put a tee on the nipple with the branch of the tee looking up. Plug the other run of the tee with a plug for a clean out.
Put a long nipple on the branch of the tee straight up then put on a coupling and then the pigtail and pressure control. This will get the pigtail higher above the water line and will reduce the chance of plugging.
Depending on the length of the nipple coming out of the boiler will determine whether the pressure control will spin without hitting the boiler. Use a long enough nipple or use a union instead of a coupling on the new vertical pipe. Use all 1/4" brass fittings.0 -
@EBEBRATT-Ed . thank you for the sound advice.0
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@EBEBRATT-Ed, posting a picture of your suggestion that I fitted. So far, so good. If you have any feedback, let me know. I ended up using the extra branch of the tee to install a low pressure gauge.
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I'd recommend altering your layout slightly. Put the pigtail first, then the ptrol and the gauge after it. You want to protect your new gauge from the steam too.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
@ethicalpaul, I think I am following your recommendation. Are you suggesting to move the tee on top of the pigtail, then add the pressuretrol to the vertical take off and then add the gauge to the branch of the tee?0
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exactlyBr. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Well actually I would put the pigtail directly into the boiler, horizontally.
Then you can put the elbows, tees, and nipples to arrange the ptrol and the gauge how you like.
You want both the ptrol and the gauge to be protected from steam by the pigtail.NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
@bergensteamguy : If you don't mind telling, how did you get the original pigtail off of your boiler?All Steamed Up, Inc.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc0 -
@Gordo cut it and unscrewed the boiler piece.0
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@bergensteamguy
If it was me I would put a brass plug in the tee you installed for a clean out. Put a new tee on above the pigtail in place of the coupling and put the gauge and pressure control back on.
I would keep everything as close to the boiler as you reasonably can to reduce leverage on the 1/4" pipe.
There is more than 1 way to do it. But Yes, the pigtail should protect the control and the gauge.
If the pigtail is down low your more apt to get sludge in it. There is no flow in the pipe it's just pressure but keeping the pigtail above the water is a good idea0 -
This might be another way of dealing with these non-user friendly p-trol/pigtail situations.
What do you think?
https://youtu.be/57p64_py5QYAll Steamed Up, Inc.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc0 -
I was able to unthread the pigtail from the boiler. I had to move a couple components in order to spin it around. It is possible to do without having to cut the pigtail.Gordo said:@bergensteamguy : If you don't mind telling, how did you get the original pigtail off of your boiler?
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that looks like it would definitely work. But you need to be very careful you do not disturb the mechanism on the pressuretrol.Gordo said:This might be another way of dealing with these non-user friendly p-trol/pigtail situations.
What do you think?
https://youtu.be/57p64_py5QY0 -
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I like my pressuretrols up high out of the maelstrom...I put the 3 psi gauge on the same pigtail and leave the 30 psi where factory wants it mad Dog 🐕1
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Or Old Hitchcock Farm..yes, I need to dust it off...find that LWCO cover! Mad Dog 🐕0
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At the higher than average height, I get a better read of the Steam going out. Some Old timers used mount the pressuretrol in a Tee on the Header. Mad Dog 🐕1
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That's where the control vapourstat on Cedric is mounted. Much more stable.Mad Dog_2 said:At the higher than average height, I get a better read of the Steam going out. Some Old timers used mount the pressuretrol in a Tee on the Header. Mad Dog 🐕
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England2 -
A lot of the old huge HRT boilers with a 8' diameter steam drum x 20' long they would sometimes mount the pressure controls on a manifold mounted on the wall about 6' up and run 3/4" pipe or 3/8 OD copper tubing over to it from the boiler with flare fittings. Otherwise you needed a 10 or 12' step ladder to climb up and adjust the controls.
I never liked that only because I was concerned the pipe or tubing would plug up. So we would put a valve on the tubing or pipe for a blow down.
That was ok except if someone forgot to close the blowdown valve the controls wouldn't sense over pressure with the long run of small pipe feeding the controls.
So I would put the high limit control (or the manual reset now) up on the boiler and just put the modulation control and operating control down on the wall.1 -
I love it...Jamie...who Cedric? My Man..Cedric The Entertainer???? Mad Dog 🐕0
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My Dole Guage is as accurate as the day it left the factory 🏭 over 100 yrs ago . MAD DOG 🐕2
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Thanks all. @Mad Dog_2 I ended up doing it just like the drawing. Thanks! The only difference is I used a 5psi Guage instead of 0-3
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@Mad Dog_2 I noticed that the pressure does not go above .6psi, so not even 1 psi of pressure. I have concerns that the near boiler piping is not the greatest. If the boiler was throwing up wet steam, would this be the cause of lower pressure? I thought it would get much higher. i.e. between 1psi and 2psi. I was surprised to see it only climb to .6psi. i know lower pressure is better, but looking for any insights.0
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It will likely climb higher after all your radiators are fully steam hot. The wet steam doesn't affect the pressure very much in my observations. It is the ability of the steam to travel and/or condense that affects the pressure.
Once your radiators are all hot, their ability to condense steam will slow and the pressure will rise (unless your boiler is undersized).NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
@ethicalpaul , thank you for the feedback. When you explain it, that makes sense. All the radiators have not gotten full of steam, because the weather is still to warm. I will revisit in a month and see where the pressure is. I also did all the calculations of each radiator and compared them to my boiler size. It is sized correctly, so I can definitely rule that out.0
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@bergensteamguy
One thing I don't care for is you have an awful lot of leverage there on a small 1/4" brass nipple sticking way out like that. I'd be concerned about that getting broke off.
@Mad Dog_2 's setup is using 1/2" steel and it's a whole lot stronger.
I'd try to get your tee up close by the boiler so that's not sticking so far out.
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment1 -
I second moving it closer to the boiler to prevent it from stressing, but it is probably just fine. Find yourself a 2psi gauge or 30oz so you can really see it. This is assuming your boiler is set to run at 1.5psi max.0
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@ChrisJ , i agree with your observation. it is a lot of weight. there is a 1/4 inch bushing coming out of the boiler. i can remove that in the spring, but in a larger piece and a reducer. that was an idea i thought of0
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bergensteamguy said:
@ChrisJ , i agree with your observation. it is a lot of weight. there is a 1/4 inch bushing coming out of the boiler. i can remove that in the spring, but in a larger piece and a reducer. that was an idea i thought of
What about if you install the first tee right on that first nipple sticking out.
And then mount it with the Pressuretrol facing to the right in the picture, towards the black pipe, and the gauge on the left side of it (closest to you) facing towards you? Then it could all be tucked in right by the boiler somewhat.
Unless there's not enough clearance to spin things on.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
Immediately to the right of that picture is my water heater. The installer left no room there. So I cannot even see the gauges, because there is a water heater in the way. If not, I would do it that way.ChrisJ said:bergensteamguy said:@ChrisJ , i agree with your observation. it is a lot of weight. there is a 1/4 inch bushing coming out of the boiler. i can remove that in the spring, but in a larger piece and a reducer. that was an idea i thought of
What about if you install the first tee right on that first nipple sticking out.
And then mount it with the Pressuretrol facing to the right in the picture, towards the black pipe, and the gauge on the left side of it (closest to you) facing towards you? Then it could all be tucked in right by the boiler somewhat.
Unless there's not enough clearance to spin things on.
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You don't want pressure, pressure is essentially bad in a steam system.bergensteamguy said:@Mad Dog_2 I noticed that the pressure does not go above .6psi, so not even 1 psi of pressure. I have concerns that the near boiler piping is not the greatest. If the boiler was throwing up wet steam, would this be the cause of lower pressure? I thought it would get much higher. i.e. between 1psi and 2psi. I was surprised to see it only climb to .6psi. i know lower pressure is better, but looking for any insights.
If you think .6 is low, you should see what @ChrisJ runs. Even mine, if I saw .6 I'd "panic" as to what was wrong...seriously. I have a 0-15 ounce gauge and that's honestly too high, I think I saw 4 ounces once. Most times it sputters down below 1.1
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