Radiant heat source piping
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/190862/radiant-floor-heating-questions#latest
Comments
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yes, that piping is able to connect to other heat sources. a dedicated tank for the heat only?Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Well... using a standard electfic water heater is not the way I would do that. A standard electric water heater is meant for heating domestic hot water, not heating a house. Two very different things. Wrong tool for the job.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
An electric tank is a good entry product for radiant. Actually, inside are the exact same elements as in an electric boiler.
An electric boiler may have some listings, like ASME than a typical water heater will not.
Your panel has a 30 lb pressure relief in addition to the factory T&P so plenty of protection.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
yes dedicated tank for heat only basically kicking around ideas dont know where the price of electricity and propanes gonna go so figured get a scratch and dent standard heater and see how it operates and then I can make a more pricey decision in the near future If I decide to change to something else. So another question is one about pumps one place recommended Grundfos 3 speed cast iron pumps for the application and another a grundfos medium head cast is there's one that's better then the other for his? Also one showed a watts auto fill 911 combi and one did not is this needed in this application once the system is filled or what's recommended Thankshot_rod said:yes, that piping is able to connect to other heat sources. a dedicated tank for the heat only?
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The only things I see are:
1. A slab will typically require a different (lower) water temperature than staple-up, so there's a chance that using the same temp water will either underperform with the staple-up zone, or overheat the slab zone.
2. Given the low flow of a 2 loop zone, pretty much any electric or gas boiler is going to require a primary/secondary piping arrangement to be added along with the addition of that boiler.0 -
ok So I was questioning 1 also about needing a mixing valve but the companies were saying not needed if the staple up was installed with aluminum plates a radiant barrier and insulation that the one pump might run a little more but that the mixing valve was not needed. So not sure if that's correct or not.GroundUp said:The only things I see are:
1. A slab will typically require a different (lower) water temperature than staple-up, so there's a chance that using the same temp water will either underperform with the staple-up zone, or overheat the slab zone.
2. Given the low flow of a 2 loop zone, pretty much any electric or gas boiler is going to require a primary/secondary piping arrangement to be added along with the addition of that boiler.
2.- If anything it would probably change to a mini elec boiler which is an on demand style also a tankless gas boiler or the gas style water heater in that photo. would these require the primary/ secondary piping arrangement .
let me know what you think thanks
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Depends on the situation. A water heater can provide some thermal storage.Jamie Hall said:Well... using a standard electfic water heater is not the way I would do that. A standard electric water heater is meant for heating domestic hot water, not heating a house. Two very different things. Wrong tool for the job.
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You could pipe two low pressure drop boilers in parallel, or with a hydroseperator, if you want both connected to switch back and forth
with primary secondary or a hydrosep you can mix and match most any type of heater or boiler
an electric boiler will be no more efficient the. An electric water heater. A 240v 30 amp circuit can get you 15,000 btu/ hr with a standard 4500w elementBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1
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