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Mini Splits and Code add on's ?

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heathead
heathead Member Posts: 234
Haven't failed yet but installing mini split in new code area NJ, inspectors are actually really nice and good. They won't take a flow switch on boiler for low water cut off so I know they are going by the book. OK so mini splits according to code are required to have a disconnect within site on indoor unit. Not failed because of it yet, but wonder if people get failed for this. I can understand why that would be required, but wouldn't a disconnect at the outside unit qualify because a tech could take the pull out switch with them to the indoor unit during service. Does anyone make a plug like they have on new led lights that one could use. They are made for relamping hot? The ones for led only have two conductor but I need three conductor. Does on think an inspector would take a plug for a disconnect for the indoor unit. I know they make a triple pole switch, but seems outdated for the wall.

Next question

Does anyone make a condensate switch rated for 60 volt that is not electronic that will work for condensate pan inside mini split wall unit? Has to cut the 60 volt communication wire. I just want simple switch that opens rated for 60 plus volts with float switch. Most I have seen are rated for 24 volts or electronic.

Thanks

Thanks

Comments

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,675
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    The inspectors around here generally aren't enforcing the indoor disconnect on mini splits so much, but to satisfy both the Code and my desire to have no splices etc. in the comm wires feeding the head, I've told Sparky to bring the feeders past the indoor head & break them there, then go outside & do his thing. Meets the Code, meets the mfgrs requirement of unbroken conductors, makes me happy.

    Regarding the float switch, we generally use a Mini White pump that has an internal switch that's rated for line voltage, or nothing if it's gravity drained. I've never mounted a float internal to a mini split head.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,909
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    If the code requires a switch, then I've installed a 3-pole single throw to satisfy them.

    There is wording in the code that a lockable disconnect at the outdoor unit is acceptable.

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,675
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    An inspector told me once that the Code says "within sight" of the indoor refrigerating equipment, regardless of locking ability at the outdoor unit. I didn't argue with him, and that was too long ago for me to remember if I checked the Code or not.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,909
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    ratio said:

    An inspector told me once that the Code says "within sight" of the indoor refrigerating equipment, regardless of locking ability at the outdoor unit. I didn't argue with him, and that was too long ago for me to remember if I checked the Code or not.

    Thats what it states but it also states Lockable disconnect in a sub paragraph. Walk in freezers use that section. What section the AHJ uses is up to them.

    Bottom line, What the inspector wants they get. You want a disconnect then a 3-pole single throw switch gets installed. Looks ugly on the wall but the homeowner can argue all they want with the inspector!
    ratio
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,737
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    The basic code rule for every motor driven appliance is that it is supposed to have a disconnect (that disconnects all ungrounded conductors) within 50' of and in site of the equipment.

    That rule has been in the code for eons.

    There are all kinds of work arounds lockable disconnects and breakers.

    To me it should have a disconnect. I like to know that the power is on or off when I work on it.

    Forget about houses for a moment.

    On a commercial job many of these are installed. What if the indoor unit is 3-4 floors up and the condensing unit is outside at ground level?

    Do you want to run out there and kill the power?
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,675
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    Regarding mini splits, not all of them will recover if you open the comm circuit between the indoor & outdoor unit; & at least for a while they were sensitive to impedance mismatches (like wire nuts, disconnects, & that sort of things) on the cables. I've personally seen installs where removing the disconnect switch & pulling in continuous conductors let the unit run without issue. It has, TBH, been many years since that experience. & AFAIK Mitsubishis still don't reconnect once they lose comm between the units.
  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 755
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    I currently own two properties in NJ and have installed them in three (north/south/shore) never needed one -- hard to do on some retrofits.

    Own properties in PA and have never needed there either