Are union connections not used in hydronics?
So is this true? I put in a run of baseboard across a room once with unions because I thought it might have to come out to work on the walls. Not been a problem in over 20 years.
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Larry Weingarten said:Hi, Any chance the plumber was confusing normal unions with dielectric unions? Yours, Larry0
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There are a few brands of union hydronic checks available. I would only use unions on items that may need service, a mix valve, check valve for example. No need on boilers or indirects, they won’t be reusable when the time comes to break them open anywaysBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Sounds like you should find a new plumber. Unions are used everywhere by competent hydronic techs. Dielectric unions, not so much becuase they're prone to leakage. Copper sweat unions also tend to leak regularly. But a good old iron or brass threaded union belongs somewhere in nearly every hydronic system. Sometimes I use pump flanges as a union, or the supplied ones on mixing valves and radiant manifolds, but if those aren't enough to allow service, I'll put some threaded ones in.2
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I'm thinking Radiator valves and Radiator 90 bend are on just about every Hydronic Radiator that has been installed since the beginning of time all the way up to now. Baseboard radiators are the only exception to this rule. But there are some cheep plumbers that will solder a convector w/o a union. Time to get that plumber some learning. He can charge more if he is on time and material pricing. More material more profit. Unless he is not that good of a businessman.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Unions are avoided because they tend to leak especially if not aligned properly and a little "never seize" helps a lot.
The other thing is the quality or lack thereof of the union.
Using 300# unions on black pipe is a good idea but cost more $$$ but are much better quality. In the past "Dart" unions were available and they were always quality. Dart is gone but someone bought them out (maybe Anvil) and FW Webb sells them.
For copper unions avoid at all costs the "all copper wroght copper " Unions they always leak and use the brass ones Nibco makes, they are pretty reliable.
You should use a few unions as possible but use them around equipment that is likely to be replaced1 -
So why do they not make brass check valves with integral union connections? It would be both a PITA and expensive to screw separate unions into both ends of the check. My last install I actually used Shark-Bite checks so I could easily swap or clean them.EBEBRATT-Ed said:Unions are avoided because they tend to leak especially if not aligned properly and a little "never seize" helps a lot.
The other thing is the quality or lack thereof of the union.
Using 300# unions on black pipe is a good idea but cost more $$$ but are much better quality. In the past "Dart" unions were available and they were always quality. Dart is gone but someone bought them out (maybe Anvil) and FW Webb sells them.
For copper unions avoid at all costs the "all copper wroght copper " Unions they always leak and use the brass ones Nibco makes, they are pretty reliable.
You should use a few unions as possible but use them around equipment that is likely to be replaced0 -
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-NA51249-1-2-Sweat-Serviceable-Flow-Check-Valve-Low-Lead
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-SCS050-1-2-Solder-Ends-Swing-Check-Valve-Lead-Free
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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With very little exception...
Every radiator is connected with a union or two.
Every steam header 2" and less gets a union.
Most double check valves (watts 9D) are connected with unions.
...to name a few applications.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes1 -
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Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I saw those, I needed a lead free, spring type 3/4.Jells said:
Why Lead Free? Are they going on potable water or boiler water?1 -
There is no such thing as lead free brass. Low lead brass, the NSF 61 approved for potable water has a % of lead in the wetted surfaces based on weight. So the initial LF lead free is a bit misleading. LL is a more accurate indication.
The Caleffi spring checks that are shown actually have a stainless steel body
It will carry the NSF- 61 shield logo, by law, if it was lab tested and approved. And the fees associated with it, paid in full🤓
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream3
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