Wiring a 2 zone valve to and 2 thermostat to a taco 2 zone switch relay

acura22itr

Hey fellas how do i hook this current system to a taco 2 zone switching relay so each floor / zone run independently ?  Please help me i don’t know where the Honeywell zone valve wires go! 

Ironman

The yellow leads are the motor; the Red leads are the end switch.

IF you have a Taco ZVC panel, the yellow leads go to terminals 1&2 and the Red go to terminals 3&4.

Ironman

I just noticed that you have two pumps, so why did you install two zone valves?

If you have a Taco SR502 PUMP panel, you can’t connect the zone valve directly to it since it’s 120v and the valves are 24v. You would need two 24v transformers or two relays.

acura22itr

So bob  boan to get this thing running .  I need to not use the taco 2 zone switching panel n just use transformers instead ?

Ironman

Please answer my question why you installed the zone valves?

EdTheHeaterMan

It appears that you installed the incorrect valves in order to properly zone your heating system. Since you obviously have 2 circulators, the proper valve woulds have been a Taco Sweat Check or Flow Check valve on each supply pipe.

Your other choice would be to use only one circulator and two zone valves. As it stands, you have two circulators (that require 120 Volts to operate) and two zone valves (that require 24 volts to operate).

You can make this work but it is sort of silly. Here is the diagram you will need to use and you will need to add two separate 24 volt transformers (one for each zone valve) in order to make this work.

In this diagram the zone valves will act as flow check valves. When there is a call for heat from one thermostat, the corresponding circulator and zone valve will open. The Red wires on the zone valves are not used in this case. This is the best I could come up with under the circumstances.

If you want to get rid of one of the circulator pumps and change the control to a ZVC 403 zone relay it would be easier to follow, but that involves repiping and you probably don't want to do that.


Look in this booklet to see the way you should have completed this for future reference. http://media.blueridgecompany.com/documents/ZoningMadeEasy.pdf Page 9 tells you about Flow Valves and page 15 explains zone valves.

acura22itr

Thanks so much @ Ed the heater man . I was YouTubing thinking i knew what to do . I was wrong . Happy ya pointed me in the right direction . @ bob i was googling and thinking this was the way but i was wrong 

HVACNUT

How is the flue on the boiler piped into the chimney? Is that a Wye fitting?
It also looks like the spill switch is bypassed. Awesome. After you wire everything up nice n purty, run down and get some low level CO detectors. Putting the spill switch back in the circuit would be good too.

Dave Carpentier

Re- Ed's diagram:
If the tstat connections on the controller supply 24v, could he instead wire each zone tstat in series with the corresponding zone valve ? When the tstat closes, the zone valve gets power. Or would that be too much resistance for the controller to sense a zone call ?

HVACNUT

Dave Carpentier said:

Re- Ed's diagram: If the tstat connections on the controller supply 24v, could he instead wire each zone tstat in series with the corresponding zone valve ? When the tstat closes, the zone valve gets power. Or would that be too much resistance for the controller to sense a zone call ?

You need to keep the transformer on the zone panel separate from the transformer for the zone valves. 
If you use one 24v 40va transformer to power the zone valves through the thermostats, and wire the end switches (red wires) to RW on the panel, the transformers are isolated from each other. 
In Ed's diagram, the circulator and zone valve get powered at the same time, but it will take a few seconds for the zone valve to open. That might cause a little hammering. 
Get those CO detectors yet?

acura22itr

Yes i got the CO DETECTORS . I just bought this house so I’m doing the work myself . I don’t know why they by passed the spill switch . I’ll buy a new one n connect it 

hot_rod

or got get 120 actuators for the zone valves, wire to pump. The short open delay is not an issue for the circs 

acura22itr

Ok thanks I’ll go to Home Depot and get the things 

Ironman

One other thing: is that regular plumbing PEX that you used?

pecmsg

acura22itr said:

Yes i got the CO DETECTORS . I just bought this house so I’m doing the work myself . I don’t know why they by passed the spill switch . I’ll buy a new one n connect it 

I strongly advise getting a Low Level CO Detector. The UL Approved detectors need to reach and maintain 70 PPM for up to 3 hours before alarming. Low level alarms like the Defender alert at 15PPM within 60 minuets.
https://www.trutechtools.com/Defender-LL6170-Low-Level-Carbon-Monoxide-Monitor-Alarm#:~:text=A direct replacement for the LL6070. ,within 15 minutes 5 more rows

EdTheHeaterMan

Just thought of a second option where only one 40 VA transformer is required

There is more than one way to skin an apple.

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

Look up the wiring diagram for that model boiler. It will show you where the circulator contacts are.

JUGHNE

How was the old one connected?

HomerJSmith

Usually not, there is a relay somewhere on the boiler jacket or aquastat if you have one.
Your boiler model # would be helpful.

acura22itr

Ok I’ll look up the model number n google it thanks guys 

ScottSecor

Looks like a roughly twenty year old Weil McLain CG. See attached electrical schematic on page 4. On most models around that time frame there would be a circulator relay almost directly behind the emergency switch. The relay takes a 24 volt signal from the thermostat circuit and closes the plug in relay. The end result is this relay sends 120 volts to the circulator pump.

https://www.weil-mclain.com/sites/default/files/field-file/cg-series-12-gas-control-supplement_1.pdf

acura22itr

Thanks a lot @ScottSecor you was very helpfull 

acura22itr

Hey guys here is a more better pic of my well McClain boiler with pic of the relay ( in back of the cut off switch )  where does the pump connect to on this ? You can see the hot wire , neutral wire , yellow wire and another black ., please help me 

Gilmorrie

I'm in the dark here. The pump should only run when there is a call for heat. Do you have some kind of schematic that you can post? What are you going by for wiring the system?

EdTheHeaterMan

@Erin Holohan Haskell, Please help. @acura22itr has 4 discussions about the same problem. Can you merge?

Erin Holohan Haskell

EdTheHeaterMan said:

@Erin Holohan Haskell, Please help. @acura22itr has 4 discussions about the same problem. Can you merge?

I've merged all of the posts here. Thanks!