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Look at this header.

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Shalom
Shalom Member Posts: 165
edited February 2022 in Strictly Steam
So I was at my chiropractor the other day, and he knew I was into this sort of thing, so he told me that he'd just had his boiler replaced, he knew I was looking to have someone to work on mine as well, so he wanted me to look at what he has and see if I wanted to hire the same tech.

Now I'm not an expert, but I don't think risers are supposed to look like this; it kind of looks like the "Before" pictures of spines that need adjustment, speaking of chiropractic. I'm not happy with that bushing at the base either.

He said they needed to move it over to match where the pipe came up from his old boiler.

Hartford loop looks a little weird also.

You can see where they worked on it; the old pipe is painted black, and the new stuff is naturally colored.

I told him I didn't think that was correct, but that with his permission I'd post some pics here and get some comments from People Who Know Better.

I get the feeling his guy was a hot water guy who thought steam was just like hot water, only hotter.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,527
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    The guy did a nice job. It's piped correctly IF (and it's a big if) the supply from the boiler and the header are large enough which i seriously doubt. Would need the model of the boiler to tell for sure.

    Since there are unions in the two supply mains it would have been easy to upsize the header
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,627
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    Reducer on the steam outlet.
    reggiBobC
  • reggi
    reggi Member Posts: 511
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    ratio said:
    Reducer on the steam outlet.
    HUGE looking reduction at that !! Looks like it's ready to pop it's cork..
    One way to get familiar something you know nothing about is to ask a really smart person a really stupid question
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,737
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    That appears to be at least a GSA-125, those require 2 1/2" riser and header at minimum. That appears to be a 3"x2" reducer on the outlet, so that would be incorrect. The basic piping layout looks fine, but that reduction is a no no.

    We see this a lot around here. The contractor doesn't want to work larger than 2", or doesn't have the equipment to work with larger than 2". No matter which reason, they shouldn't even be quoting these jobs.

    Now I wonder if it was sized correctly....
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
    CLambbucksnort
  • SteamingatMohawk
    SteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 1,007
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    If it is a GSA-125, 104,000 DOE heating capacity, a 2" header would have 31 fps steam velocity. A 2-1/2" header would be about 21 fps. That would be below the maximum 25 fps for modern boilers discussed in Lost Art.

    Don_175
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,627
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    I'm guessing not tooled up for larger pipe sizes, as the actual layout seems to be correct.

    Does it make any noise? Does it flood? If not, it's fine, even if it could be better.

  • reggi
    reggi Member Posts: 511
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    What is it that is used in stovepipe/chimney for sealing. ? It looks like twisted rope or foam sealant though I'm sure it's right it's not something I'm familiar with as I do mine by mix
    One way to get familiar something you know nothing about is to ask a really smart person a really stupid question
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
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    reggi said:

    What is it that is used in stovepipe/chimney for sealing. ? It looks like twisted rope or foam sealant though I'm sure it's right it's not something I'm familiar with as I do mine by mix

    It's probably a kaowool product. I have mine like that so I can easily access the chimney base for cleaning. Better than mixing something you need to replace every cleaning, but not as good as a proper thimble.
    As long as is isn't able to just pop right out, it's probably ok...if that is what is in there.
    The bigger concern is the wrong gauge flue pipe.
    steve
    reggi
  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
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    Aside from the reduction, which is wrong, the supply riser should go straight up as far as possible to allow droplets to decelerate and fall back into the boiler. Introducing the bend is like providing a ramp to help the water climb into the header. It would have been cheaper and easier to use a straight pipe up to a 90° reducing elbow to a swing arm over to the header. There's no reason to put a union on the riser when there's one on the system riser and the equalizer.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24