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Water dribbling out of thermostatic traps
tomeon
Member Posts: 5
Hello, and thanks in advance for any help you can offer to this completely outmatched homeowner. Fingers crossed that this is plain old user error
I replaced all 18 traps with new Barnes & Jones 2896 cage units, along with new matching covers. I left the old removable seats in place.
The house also has radiant heat flooring in the kitchen, supplied by the same boiler used for the radiators.
The pressure gauge near the Pressuretrol never reads above 0 PSI; in fact, if it budges from 0 at all, it's to go very slightly into vacuum.
The water level in the gauge glass changes when the system is under load. It gets slightly higher as the boiler is warming up, then drops lower after a while, returning slightly higher after things cool down.
While the heat is on, I can hear hissing from the vent every few seconds, and I can see the little ball on top bobbling around in its cage.
The return pipes never get much above room temperature.
The Pressuretrol is set to cut in at 1/2 psi and cut out at 1-1/2 psi, if I am reading it correctly. As mentioned above, the pressure gauge near the Pressuretrol stays at 0 PSI, perhaps going just barely into vacuum while the system is under load.
Please feel free at this point to regale me with my many boneheaded errors.
Happy to provide any additional information, photographs, etc.
Thanks again!
The Problem
I replaced all 18 thermostatic traps in my house with new cage units. There's no more clanging and banging, but there is water dribbling out of the (crossover?) trap covers.History
My house has a two-pipe system. The boiler is a 30-year-old Weil-McLain. There are 11 radiators, each with a trap, and 7 additional traps in the basement. All traps were Cashin-Thermoflex 12s. The main vent is a Cashin-Thermoflex unit; it's hard to even see the top, let alone read the embossed text, but it appears to say something like "No. 301 Vent Trap".I replaced all 18 traps with new Barnes & Jones 2896 cage units, along with new matching covers. I left the old removable seats in place.
The house also has radiant heat flooring in the kitchen, supplied by the same boiler used for the radiators.
Signs & Symptoms
6 of the 7 traps in the basement leak perceptibly, some more copiously than others. 1 radiator trap leaks perceptibly.The pressure gauge near the Pressuretrol never reads above 0 PSI; in fact, if it budges from 0 at all, it's to go very slightly into vacuum.
The water level in the gauge glass changes when the system is under load. It gets slightly higher as the boiler is warming up, then drops lower after a while, returning slightly higher after things cool down.
While the heat is on, I can hear hissing from the vent every few seconds, and I can see the little ball on top bobbling around in its cage.
The return pipes never get much above room temperature.
Photos
Dribbling Traps
Gauge Glass
Boiler off
Boiler heating up
Boiler running
It's at this stage that the traps are dribbling noticeably.Main Vent
Boiler
Radiant Heat Flooring & Misc. Other Equipment
Prior Art & Research
This thread suggests that leaking from trap covers may be due to:- Covers insufficiently tightened
- Pressure in system too high
The Pressuretrol is set to cut in at 1/2 psi and cut out at 1-1/2 psi, if I am reading it correctly. As mentioned above, the pressure gauge near the Pressuretrol stays at 0 PSI, perhaps going just barely into vacuum while the system is under load.
The End
Thanks for reading this farPlease feel free at this point to regale me with my many boneheaded errors.
Happy to provide any additional information, photographs, etc.
Thanks again!
0
Comments
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No boneheaded errors -- except maybe one. Did you think to use any tape or pipe dope on the trap covers when you put them on? I have a notion -- which may be wrong -- that that type of cover seals on the threads...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Thank you for the quick response!
The instructions from Barnes & Jones say:
I wasn't able to find anything that billed itself as graphite sealant, so I ended up using Megaloc Multi-Purpose Thread Sealant.
Apply graphite to cover threads [on the trap body].
Should I try something else?0 -
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If it really is sealing on the threads or even on a metal-metal taper, an 8" or so 3/8" ratchet isn't much torque for threads that large a diameter. I wouldn't be afraid to use a bit of a cheater on it or a half inch ratchet. A few wraps of teflon tape in addition to the dope may seal a lot better if the threads are a little funky.1
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I agree with @mattmia2 teflon tape and a small amount of dope (don't get any inside the trap) and a larger wrench.
Worse comes to worse you could replace a couple of traps and see how that goes1 -
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The instructions were a bit ambiguous on this point -- they say:retiredguy said:Did you check the instructions for the replacement B&J cage units. On most of the ones I have replaced I had to remove the old trap seats.
The cage unit is a complete one piece trap renewal kit containing element, plug, and seat (emphasis mine)
However, none of the half-dozen numbered installation steps in the document say anything like "remove the existing trap seat". Moreover, B&J 2896s are "seat in", which IIUC means that the existing seat should be retained.
I ended up calling B&J technical support, and the representative I spoke to confirmed that the old seats need to stay in ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.0 -
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Yes, I did -- thank you for asking. Most of the rest of the trap covers just needed a good torquing; the tape-plus-dope approach worked for the rest.EBEBRATT-Ed said:did you get the leaking to stop?
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