Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Better way to change strainer on 2 pipe

CometoJesus Member Posts: 1
edited August 2021 in Oil Heating
Hey guys newbie here been doing oil for about a month and was wondering what the best way to change a strainer on a 2 pipe system, I was told to take the pump off the burner and do it quickly over a bucket if any one has any more efficient ways I'd appreciate hearing them


    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,343
    If the return line runs to the bottom of the tank oil may sylphon back through the return. That's why I always put a check valve on the return regardless of any incoming flack.

    So that's the choice. Over a bucket could get messy every time. Putting in a check will be messy once, and maybe not at all if you can cut into the return up high
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,786
    First, does it have to be 2 pipe?
    It depends on how the pipes relate to the tank. If it's a total lift job you should get almost no oil when you crack the strainer.
    I usually fix the oil lines if at all possible to make it easier in the future. It's nice if they don't 90° under the strainer, but either drop 4" or 5" first, or come down and 90° under the burner housing. Not always possible obviously.
    Then I took a little piece of sheet metal (be careful on flex lines) and notched it out, with a little lip on the 'back'. I can slip it between the two port under the pump to channel the oil over the lines and into my little container to catch the oil. I put a rag under the sheet metal to hold it in place and catch anything that may try to get thru. A little magnet in the right spot on the back helps it stick to the motor.
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,343
    Check valve sounds easier & I like 2 pipe anyhow!!!
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 2,766
    Personally I get rid of the 2 pipe and install a tiger loop w a spin of gar filter throw on a vacuum gauge and your done . There’s nothing worse then filtering 18 gpm and your burning 1 gpm and any issues w a leak on the return and your leaking oil some where and if it’s a older tank then every oil delivery-is the standard filter nozzle and strainer and burner head cleaning for get about it ? . In Europe and else where tiger loops are the standard and 2 pipe to the tank is old school and not done due to possible Enviromental issues and issues w flame retention burns and vacuume. There’s nothing nicer then a oil pump not pulling any vacuume and running as should be some thing that when a return line is particularly clogged and there’s vacuumed being pulled is not going to happen . I always felt that you should give a oil burner the respect it deserves and all the best chances to operate at the best it can and properly .Remenber a clogged return over time will kill a pumps seal and cause a leak . In this day and age w all the goodies new burners are equipped w delayed ignition ,pre and post purge oil delay valve and so on if installing a new boiler or burner and a tiger loop and spin on is not installed it’s shame on you and stop cheating your customers and do it right first time out . Peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating