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Bosch Boiler Control

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  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    You probably need to do some control and thermostat tweaking. Start with moving the system sensor to the outlet side of the tank.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • rocksolidsr
    rocksolidsr Member Posts: 33
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    Like this image?


    Should the supply temperature or return temperature oscillate or should it stay pretty constant unless the outdoor reset changes it?

    After changing the setup, I've noticed that the supply and return temp is pretty constant (minor fluctuations) but the boiler temperature temperature goes from 158 - 130.

    I will get that sensor moved and see if that helps

    I can't thank you enough for all the help, I am definitely learning a lot!

  • fenkel
    fenkel Member Posts: 162
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    To make your buffer tank work better,look into using hydraulic seperation, it will require the use of primary/ secondary piping. 
  • rocksolidsr
    rocksolidsr Member Posts: 33
    edited January 2021
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    So it looks like moving that temperature helps!
    Now the boiler is on for ~15 minutes and off ~20 minutes
    Again thanks for all the help!
    Looks like my temperature differential is about 10-15 degrees, is that appropriate?

  • rocksolidsr
    rocksolidsr Member Posts: 33
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    Does anyone know if there is a way to control the circulator pump with the FW200 that doesn't invovle the CZM100 or ICM Cascade Module, right now I'm using my thermostat (ECOBEE) AUX output and was hoping to remove the boiler from the ecobee.

    Also does anyone know if there is an internal low water cut off on this boiler? The external one failed on me and when a service tech came he said he bypassed it because he said there was an internal one. He said that Bosch tech service told him it would be safe to do so? I just don't get why they would have an internal one and then have the option to hook up an external one too. Is it common for the LWCO sensor to fail after 4-5 years?

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