PVC Flexible Pipe - 2 Inch Schedule 40 to plumb in a Pool Heater

jfalbo

Is it ok to use PVC Flexible Pipe - 2 Inch Schedule 40 from the back of a Raypak Ruud Heater Natural Gas PR156A 150K BTU and would I need to have any special fittings to connect said flexible pipe to the in/out header tail piece?

I am replacing a Jandy Lite2 with this Raypak and have very limited space to work in. The Jandy has the water in/out coming from the right side when facing the front of the unit and the Raypak water in/out will be coming off the back side of the unit.





Thank you in advance.

Jamie Hall

PVC pipe -- any schedule -- has a maximum temperature rating of 100 F if it's under pressure -- so no.

CPVC is OK

EBEBRATT-Ed

Read the manual the pool heater came with it will steer you in the right direction

Intplm.

Check the temperature and pressure ratings for both schedule #80 pvc and cpvc.
They might be applicable to your application.

hot_rod

if it is a common listed pool heater, most times they include a couple of feet of stainless or copper header for you to connect the PVC onto. Even hot tube run standard PVC or flexible PVC.
I'd stay away from cellular core pipe.

Zman

Be careful of flex PVC. The resistance of the pipe is crazy high. The temp rating is rarely published.

wyo

Here’s a couple PVC pipes I discovered serving as supply/return for a hot tub. Looks like a Dr Seuss illustration. Maybe the wrong material.  Probably could use some support too assuming that black shoelace doesn’t qualify. (:

Lard

My hot tub came new using plain sch40 PVC and flex, despite running up to 110 degrees and ~30psi.

it has had blowouts in the flex portions.  The plasticizer leaches out and it gets brittle and splits longitudinally. 

I have replaced a good bit of it with sch80 PVC and it has yet to fail. I had to be very creative with swing joints.

TAG

My current 400k pool heater has a CPVC connector "header" to the bronze header of the heater that is designed to take regular 2" sch 40 PVC. The temp of the water coming out is not very hot.

Years ago (25+) the connector header was metal on some and they did require a short metal connector pipe that used a compression fitting ..

I would call the manufacturer -- some are very good at answering questions. Frankly -- it would surprise me if it's not approved and regular is. I'm talking about the heavy white PVC with smooth inner wall ...

When I repiped my pool system about 10 years ago for new filter/pumps I used the 2" flex ... it's a superior way vs 90's and connectors. Male to slip fittings for the flex.

Jamie Hall

A comment, if I may, from a long retired -- and, when in the business, as flexible as possible building inspector. If, and only if, there are two fail safe temperature control devices on the pool heater, which limit the operating temperature of the water to 100 F, I'd have permitted PVC. Any schedule. Over that, or without the fail safes, I would have required CPVC.

SteamingatMohawk

I have a heat pump pool heater set at 85F installed about 4 years ago. I used 2" white flex pipe and have had no problems. I have a tee at the bottom connection with a drain and blow down the heater for the winter (upstate NY).

TAG

As I said -- 25+ years ago regular 40 PVC was approved for connection. Minimax (Pentair) -- it was one of the selling points. They all have roll over sensors -- multi temp sensors and pressure sensors. The output temp is warm -- not hot ...even with my 400k heater .... it's a 2" pipe and 1.5hp pump.

Mine has the ridged PVC as it 90's not far from the unit and goes right under ground. My original filter/pump was all ridged as well.

All the newer setups seem to use some of the flex -- it eliminates any alignment issues, vibrations and restrictions. Again -- this is the heavy stuff that uses the same glue and fittings as sch40. Not clamps. It's not the cheap flex pipe that comes with some filter pump setups

hot_rod

I think maintain careful chemistry has a lot to do with PVC life. Even in cold water mains there have been examples of plasticizer leaching out from the treatment chemicals. It happens on dead end piping runs can cause hairline splits.
I think KC had issues with PVC failing years ago traced to the water treatment chemicals.
I suspect hot water could accelerate that?
When I abandoned my pool, after 20 plus years, all the PVC was fragile like glass, it would shatter just dropping it on the concrete.