New pressure reducing valve hits boiler upon installation, what to do?

zvalve

The the pressure reducing valve strikes boiler box cover when it is threaded on the feed pipe to the left unless the adjusting nut and screw are removed. Can I do this to install the new valve or won’t it disturb the factory set pressure of 12 psi. Photo1 shows the old valve with the nut and screw remove And photo2 shows how it touches the boiler. Any help appreciated 

Ironman

Put a union on the other side and you won't have to spin the valve to get it on.

STEVEusaPA

Are you replacing the valve with new? If so take the 4 screws out, then you can spin it off. You should be replacing it with a new back flow and pressure reducing valve anyway.
Easier would be to cut the copper on the left side and clean it all up.
My guess is they screwed the copper in on the left, put the brass nut on the right side, and soldered in the coupling (or some sort of shut off valve) on the left.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Can you stand farther back and take a few pictures?

Is the new valve taller than the old one ? Is that the issue?

zvalve

Steve if I take the the four screws out won’t parts fall out or change the factory preset at 12 psi. Why do I need a back flow valve. There is not one on it now. The pressure reducing valve doesn’t have a back flow valve built in?
Ebenbratt I will take some pictures ASAP. The new and old one are the same size
thanks for your replied

mattmia2

It looks like there is a flange after it on the left after the ell.

The check valve maybe wasn't required when it was installed, it is a minimum now. It makes it less likely that system water will get in to the potable water supply for the house.

STEVEusaPA

zvalve said:

Steve if I take the the four screws out won’t parts fall out or change the factory preset at 12 psi. Why do I need a back flow valve. There is not one on it now. The pressure reducing valve doesn’t have a back flow valve built in?
Ebenbratt I will take some pictures ASAP. The new and old one are the same size
thanks for your replied

I was talking about taking the 4 screws off the old one. I wouldn't try to spin a new one on. I'd just cut the copper to the left like I mentioned, screw on to brass nut on right, line it up, press/solder.
Yes BFP required now.

zvalve

Steve thanks, What does BFP stand for?A technical support specialist At Taco said you could take the valve apart at the four screw no problem?

HVACNUT

BFP is a Back Flow Preventer. It should be there, somewhere upstream of the PRV.
Yes you can remove the screws to spin it out. You'll also have to remove the screws to spin the new one on. Without losing pieces. Pretty easy to do. I've come across many where the knucklehead installers piped it too close.
The BFP is code. Maybe your boiler predates it and doesn't have one but it's a good idea if your already there. 

zvalve

Thanks HVACNUT, I spun the old one out by removing the adjuster nut and bolt. Where does the BFP go? and won’t it create Plumbing issues on this system. Does it have to be horizontal?  Ebebrat-Ed here is a photo. Sorry I spelled your username wrong above.photos.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@zvalve
A backflow preventer is required on new jobs but was not required when you boiler was installed.

As you know the PRV is where potable water ( hand washing, showers, dishwasher) connects with the boiler system which has water containing rust etc .................you wouldn't want to drink it.

Since the city or well water is at a higher pressure than the boiler system the dirty boiler water is seldom a problem backing up into the city water.........but under the right circumstances it can happen. So it is a safety device your boiler should have and a backflow preventer should be installed while your at it

mattmia2

Plus boiler water usually isn't particularly hazardous so it usually only requires the simplest form of backflow protection.

You could unbolt that flange on the pump and move the pipe out a little. Have a new gasket for the flange on hand.

Ironman

You're gonna have more problems if that leak above the circulator isn't fixed.

hot_rod

Another good up grade would be to move the expansion tank connect to the same location as the fill valve.
As it is now you are pumping into the boiler and at the point of no pressure change. Any issues with air removal?

zvalve

hot_rod asking some questions and answers on your diagram from around May 3. Answer: The expansion tank is on the  boiler output
Questions:

1. On  diagram you put a T in line for expansion tank so what is at end of line to the right above tank with an X next to it?

2. What does X stand for?
4. Where does Webstone go? On supply line before circulatory?
5. Where does air scoop go?
6. Where does BPV and PRV go?
7. What is box with line running through it on top of boiler?
8. The circle with downward facing V is circulator (pump)?

hot_rod

In the line about a foot above the circulator I would add one of these Webstone purge valves.
Add a new fill valve on that vertical line, maybe a foot above the boiler, below the fill valve add a tee for the expansion tank.

A work around for the expansion tank, remove tank from air purger add nipple and shut off, add tee below, reinstall tank. Run the branch of the tee over to the tee you added below the fill valve, this connects the tank in the correct location in the piping.
The old air purger solidly supports the tank.

Remove the handle from them valve at the air purger after you turn it off. This will really confuse someone, down the road.

zvalve

hot_rod some additional questions:
1. Above the circulator you install in this Order T, fill valve, purge valve.
2. Is the Fill valve made up of the BPV and PRV?
3 With your description how or where is the air purged from the system?

hot_rod

This is one option that cleans up a few issues.

Add the Webstone purge valve above pump,now you have an isolation valve and a purge for the entire system. Add a tee with 1/2 branch below the Webstone as the new expansion tank connection point.

Add a valve and tee between the purger and expansion tank, turn off valve, connect tee to the feed line that has the new Caleffi 573 autofill back flow.

Now you have a great, automatic fast fill valve, backflow device, where you can get at it, and connected the expansion tank to the inlet side of the circulator, "pumping away"

zvalve

hot_rod
Thanks for the photo now it is perfectly clear what you described: Your da Man! How do you use the Webstone purge valve? Why is your plumbing  preferred over that described by the manufacturer Dunkirk? In the diagram below, is the cool water inlet the fill line and the SUPPLY MAIN goes to the radiators?

hot_rod

Here is the Webstone video. They explain it as a drain function, you are using it as a purge, so leave the fill valve on as you do these steps. Open one zone, purge, close, open second zone and repeat.

http://www.webstonevalves.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/wecoin/customerpages/balldrain_video.htm

I have no idea why boiler manufacturers continue to show circulators pumping at the expansion tank,. It sure causes a lot of problems in the real world. Especially when circulators are replaced and upgraded to higher head wet rotor type.

Seem like a simple task to changes a few component locations on a drawing like that.
Maybe they don't read, or believe "Pumping Away"?