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Banging radiator after relocation

This discussion was created from comments split from: Steam heating issues.

Comments

  • ss8295ss8295 Member Posts: 22
    Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to mitigate a banging radiator? I get water hammer in one of my rads after it was relocated. I’m pretty sure the piping was laid down incorrectly. I’ve tried raising the rad up from the inlet side and have pitched the rad back towards the inlet from the other side also. For whatever reason over venting the rad helps in banging. Any other tricks I can try? If all else fails would a smaller rad or a steel convector help? 
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,412
    @ss8295 -- you really should have started a new thread, but...

    Chances are your problem is that the pipe was, indeed, laid down incorrectly, without adequate pitch. The only solution is going to be to change things so that it has adequate pitch... a smaller radiator might lessen the problem, but not eliminate it -- and would be addressing the symptom, not the problem!
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
    ethicalpaul
  • colinbarrycolinbarry Member Posts: 10
    Just a thought... I had one long radiator that would always clang when heating up and then once more upon cooldown... Couldn't get it to stop despite replacing tension rods, replacing piping, and adjusting for proper pitch of the radiator. I lived with it like this for years. Last year I put a 5/16" washer under each foot and it totally resolved the clanging. I think the radiator was binding with the wood floor. The washers allow the radiator to "slip" on the floor to allow for proper expansion and contraction.
    ethicalpaul
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,412
    Yes indeed. Expansion (or contraction) can make a banging noise, or more often several in succession, and it can be the radiator binding on the floor or it can also be a pipe binding where it goes through a hanger or a floor or ceiling. It's a rather different clang from a water hammer, but impossible to describe the difference in words!
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • ss8295ss8295 Member Posts: 22
    Thank you for adjusting the thread. Well the radiator in question is on tile flooring so I think I can rule out binding. Also I can hear water in the pipes and radiator swishing around. 
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,412
    Actually, no -- the feet of the radiator can stick and slip on the floor. And often do. However, if you can hear water in the pipes... there you are. Now the question is... how to fix the pitch so it isn't there?
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • ss8295ss8295 Member Posts: 22
    Actually, no -- the feet of the radiator can stick and slip on the floor. And often do. However, if you can hear water in the pipes... there you are. Now the question is... how to fix the pitch so it isn't there?
    Ahh ok I see. Well I have raised the radiator from both ends in an attempt to correct the pitch of the pipes and have placed wood under the feet of the rad. Also pitched the rad back to the inlet also. If I try a smaller rad, would a small steel convector be better in any way vs a actual rad? 
  • ethicalpaulethicalpaul Member Posts: 1,864
    No, no, a thousand times no
    1 pipe Peerless 63-03L in Cedar Grove, NJ, coal > oil > NG
  • dopey27177dopey27177 Member Posts: 401
    If you moved the radiator and have more than 6 feet of the original sized pipe the condensate will not drain fast enough and
    steam will stop the flow of the condensate and banging will occur
    Two corrections are possible.
    1. try to get at least 4" of pitch on the horizontal supply to the radiator.
    2. Increase the size of the horizontal pipe one size. That would entail replacing the the riser elbow one size (example 1 1/4" X 1 1/2" elbow with a piece of 1 1/2" pipe and at the radiator supply reduce from 1/1/2" pipe with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4 Elbow to supply the radiator and Pitch the pipe with at least 1/2" of pitch ).

    Jake
    ss8295
  • ss8295ss8295 Member Posts: 22
    If I tap in a vent on the same side as the inlet valve on the problematic radiator, would that essentially make it act as a smaller radiator? That way I can simulate if a smaller rad mitigates the problem. 
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,412
    ss8295 said:

    If I tap in a vent on the same side as the inlet valve on the problematic radiator, would that essentially make it act as a smaller radiator? That way I can simulate if a smaller rad mitigates the problem. 

    Sadly, no. All that will accomplish is to make it heat faster -- and quite possibly make the problem worse.
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
    ss8295
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