One Pipe System Wet Return - Can somebody advise ?
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I'll dig and google around I guess :-)0
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It's not harder than necessary. Every installation is different, and the required pipe sizes will change depending on factors such as distance from the pressure reducing equipment, the meter, other appliances hooked up, how many fittings and what sort are in the way... and so on. The tables help the craftsperson installing the system to do it correctly, without having to resort to the head loss calculations which are otherwise necessary.JasonFritz said:The Crown Boiler Install manual ust says " refer to whatever number / chapter of the US gas code for pipe sizing" .....its very helpful they couldn't have just said ....you need whatever size ....or whatever gas pressure ....for this or that size boiler ?
both easy to measure :-) .......instead refer to a bunch of tables ,find which one applies to you first if you can .... I hate it when companies make it harder when not necessary ... :-)
Boilers and such are not plug and play, and you can't treat them as if they were the latest digital widget. Doesn't work that way.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England2 -
I might argue that Crown Boiler did it right. The code can change over time and location...why should their manual partially try to replicate the tables that may or may not apply to a given customer?
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
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everything should be plug and play make life easier0
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See we distribute gas inside residential houses at 7" water column pressure, it was designed for gas lighting, it is more like duct work than piping so you need large diameter pipe to distribute a high volume of gas without pressure drop.0
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I did the same and I am having a lot of issues with water hammer . I raised the return vertically then ran straight then t to bring down again. Do bringing back to its original configuration fix the issue?the red is the way we went . Alternatively the service guy said that connecting a horizontal pipe between the two vertical pipes , using a t to pick up the other vertical pipe and then coming down at a 45 degree angle to the new pipe would fix the issue. Your thoughts?
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Not sure I quite understand what you did? Do you mean that you went up from the wet return, then over a ways, then back down? How high is that new horizontal piece? Above the boiler water line? If so, that will be a problem.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
I did the same as the initial drawing and I’m having major issues with water hammer . Should I place the return again at the bottom or could I do what tte service guy who came to diagnose this said; come across horizontally the to vertical pipes and come down at a 45 angle to the new pipe location to facilitate flow. Which option would be best and eliminate this hammer from hell
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Jamie, yes that’s what I did. Now really bad hammer . May just open the wall and relocate everything. Not sure if the option the service guy gave me would fix it
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Wet returns have to connect together below the water line or steam will get in to them and cause hammer.
I'm still confused about what was there, what you did, and why you did it because i'm not re0reading 50 comments from 4 years ag to figure that out.
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Oh, you're globbing on to a 4 year old post. start a new post and start over.
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It has to connect at the bottom, below the water line. The way it is now steam will get in to the horizontal section i highlighted in yellow and collide with the condensate and bang. That may have been below the water line with an old coal boiler:
well it won't attach my picture. The drip and the return at the bottom of the main have to connect at the floor.
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