radiator leaks
Ancient radiator. Leaking at bottom... put a pyrex pan underneath that needs dumping every few days.
Besides replacing radiator - what options could i consider?
THANKS
Comments
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Is your steam pressure too high?0
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Can you tell if it's leaking between two sections? And, if so, how is the thing held together? Some radiators -- the ones with simple tension rods on the outside (usually two or four) -- are actually not that hard to repair. If that what it is, the nipple which joins the sections may be rusted out -- wouldn't be the first time. If that is what it is (and if you post a picture of the side and ends we can tell pretty fast) the drill is to disconnect it, undo the tension rods (which are usually painted on... and remarkably fragile, so take it easy) and then split the radiator at the offending joint. There are a number of ways to do that -- wooden wedges work, ball joint or power press splitters work, etc. -- but be very even top to bottom and side to side.
Once you get it apart, take a look at the nipple. Someone a while back had a source for new nipples, which like an idiot I didn't write down, but you may find that only the bottom is rusted. If so, I've had good success with simply taking it out (it's a taper fit, but usually comes out) and rotating it 180, so the rusted out part is on top, and then putting it back in. There may still be a minor steam leak doing that, so to add the belt to the suspenders I put a good ring of red RTV outside the nipple area where it will be in contact with the sections when you pull them back together. Then carefully (again, be even) put the thing back together and pull it tight using a couple of pipe clamps. Do NOT try to pull it together with the tension rod -- they aren't made of that. Then put the tension rods back and retighten them, but if the threads are good only finger tight plus perhaps a quarter turn.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Jamie Hall said:
Can you tell if it's leaking between two sections? And, if so, how is the thing held together? Some radiators -- the ones with simple tension rods on the outside (usually two or four) -- are actually not that hard to repair. If that what it is, the nipple which joins the sections may be rusted out -- wouldn't be the first time. If that is what it is (and if you post a picture of the side and ends we can tell pretty fast) the drill is to disconnect it, undo the tension rods (which are usually painted on... and remarkably fragile, so take it easy) and then split the radiator at the offending joint. There are a number of ways to do that -- wooden wedges work, ball joint or power press splitters work, etc. -- but be very even top to bottom and side to side.
Once you get it apart, take a look at the nipple. Someone a while back had a source for new nipples, which like an idiot I didn't write down, but you may find that only the bottom is rusted. If so, I've had good success with simply taking it out (it's a taper fit, but usually comes out) and rotating it 180, so the rusted out part is on top, and then putting it back in. There may still be a minor steam leak doing that, so to add the belt to the suspenders I put a good ring of red RTV outside the nipple area where it will be in contact with the sections when you pull them back together. Then carefully (again, be even) put the thing back together and pull it tight using a couple of pipe clamps. Do NOT try to pull it together with the tension rod -- they aren't made of that. Then put the tension rods back and retighten them, but if the threads are good only finger tight plus perhaps a quarter turn.
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uncertain what type of radiator but picture is above.Mark929 said:Jamie Hall said:Can you tell if it's leaking between two sections? And, if so, how is the thing held together? Some radiators -- the ones with simple tension rods on the outside (usually two or four) -- are actually not that hard to repair. If that what it is, the nipple which joins the sections may be rusted out -- wouldn't be the first time. If that is what it is (and if you post a picture of the side and ends we can tell pretty fast) the drill is to disconnect it, undo the tension rods (which are usually painted on... and remarkably fragile, so take it easy) and then split the radiator at the offending joint. There are a number of ways to do that -- wooden wedges work, ball joint or power press splitters work, etc. -- but be very even top to bottom and side to side.
Once you get it apart, take a look at the nipple. Someone a while back had a source for new nipples, which like an idiot I didn't write down, but you may find that only the bottom is rusted. If so, I've had good success with simply taking it out (it's a taper fit, but usually comes out) and rotating it 180, so the rusted out part is on top, and then putting it back in. There may still be a minor steam leak doing that, so to add the belt to the suspenders I put a good ring of red RTV outside the nipple area where it will be in contact with the sections when you pull them back together. Then carefully (again, be even) put the thing back together and pull it tight using a couple of pipe clamps. Do NOT try to pull it together with the tension rod -- they aren't made of that. Then put the tension rods back and retighten them, but if the threads are good only finger tight plus perhaps a quarter turn.0 -
Can't see the ends. Are there tension rods outside?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
My opinion: start looking in Craigslist for a replacement
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
I am not a pro, But what about JB weld?
I have read a few posts on this site where people have repaired a leaky radiator successfully, But it depends on the leak. Is it rusted through, cracked or is it just a pin hole?Located in durham NC.
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I have used JB Weld successfully a couple of times (and it's still holding, some years later!) but with this note: unless you can get the area which is to be patched very very clean, it doesn't work.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0
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