Pipe Dope

ChrisJ

A serious question,

What's so great about Megaloc? Why do so many choose it?
I've used it pretty much on everything I've done since 2011 and I have little complaints if any.

But, I started using Loctite 5117 at work and I'm kind of wondering if it may be better for some applications? It doesn't dry but it does become thick and sticky, almost like a gooey glue. I sat a fitting down on a bench with some on it and had a hell of a time getting it (the fitting) off the table a few months later. I suppose in my mind, it seems like it'll stay put in less than perfect threads under pressure where thinner dope may push out. No idea if that even works in the real world or not.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/thread-sealants/loctite_5117.html




Also, I see Blue Monster has several dopes as well. Why do some have PTFE and others do not? Is there a downside to PTFE?

Is Megaloc special? Or is dope dope?
What do you use, and why?

All thoughts and comments are welcome.

SuperTech

I like the blue monster dope. I prefer using the white teflon dope that EK sells. No need for any tape with it and it can be used on almost anything. 

EdTheHeaterMan

Read the label.   There are different pipe joint compounds for different purposes.   Some are good for different fluids and gasses while the one you have may be contra-indicated for some purposes.   Some work with plastic while others don’t.   

My go to dope is rector-seal #5.  Real messy yellow color. Works with boiler piping, oil burner fittings and gas pipe. I see the gas company guys use Prodope. A gray paste that cleans up easier.   Not so good on Large water pipes on boilers IMO

EBEBRATT-Ed

I have used that locktite before and it is good although If I remember it gets "stringy" coming out of the container.

I like Rectorseal "True Blue" works good but tough to get off your hands. Doesn't dry out

ChrisJ

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

I have used that locktite before and it is good although If I remember it gets "stringy" coming out of the container. I like Rectorseal "True Blue" works good but tough to get off your hands. Doesn't dry out

Have you tried Megaloc and if so, what were your thoughts?

SlamDunk

Never used Mega lock.

My preferences are Tite -Seal-Medium and Key tite. Both thick, not runny. Dark olive green to blend in. Never seems to dry making separation easier.

hot_rod

Like most plumbers I have used all different brands, my current favorites. The stainless specific really works on stainless steel threads. Bad or questionable threads get a few wraps of Blue Monster tape first.

Intplm.

There is all sorts of pipe dope that is used. I have found that it is mostly personal preference.
I was introduced to this stuff a few years back and have been using almost nothing else. I like it because it works on so many applications. I don't like having to carry around more types of dope because it's just more that takes up space
etc.
Try this stuff. You will be hooked. No complaints and no concerns of any sort.

EzzyT

We use Megalock since we have so much of it in stock but also use Gasoila and Teflon Paste.
Since trying out Gasoila a year ago I’m definitely sold on it.

ChrisJ

EzzyT said:

We use Megalock since we have so much of it in stock but also use Gasoila and Teflon Paste.
Since trying out Gasoila a year ago I’m definitely sold on it.

What are your dislikes about the Megaloc and how does Gasoila compare?

Big Ed_4

Megalock sets hard , and if used with cast , that fitting can not be removed ..

EzzyT

@ChrisJ I don’t have any dislikes with Megalock besides it does separate in the can when it sits for awhile. Gasoila sets better and much easier to clean up.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Mega lock does separate a little. I only use it a little bit just didn't care for it not that it was bad I just prefer other brands, Key Tite as @SlamDunk mentioned is also good

BillyO

I use Rector T plus 2 on everything. Found it best for all applications

HomerJSmith

My idea of a Pipe Dope is, "I cut a pipe three times and it's still too short."

hvacfreak2

I like Blue Monster as well ( white teflon ). Blue Block after that , although I seem to wear more of it that what actually gets on the pipe .

GroundUp

I have an absolute disgust for Megaloc. Always soupy, the brush sucks, the steel can is always smashed and/or rusty and leaks everywhere in the truck, and I've had a lot more leaks with it compared to anything else. Gasoila is top notch in my book with Rectumseal #5 a close second. Have not tried Blue Monster yet, but I hate their tape so my petty side tells me to stick with what I already like. For marred or SS threads like heat exchangers, or steel to copper female joints, I use Loctite 567 anaerobic sealant from a tube. It's spendy and messy, but eventually sets up like concrete. Great stuff for those special joints

SuperTech

I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who's had a can of Megaloc start leaking and make a disgusting mess out of the truck. My shelves in the van would still look immaculate if it wasn't for that stuff and Spectroline UV dye. The stuff does need to be constantly stirred and it will still be sloppy to work with even after spending half the day stirring it. 

jumper

With modern chemistry I wonder if we can use some sort of straight threads to connect pipes? Easier to fit if we can turn couplings and nipples to adjust?

ChrisJ

I just did some gas pipe today.

My first can of Megaloc from 2011 is almost gone.   Its not runny anymore.  But I do use my finger to spread it 90% of the time because the brush just seems to make a mess.

It is dented in the other side has been since I got it.

SuperTech

@ChrisJ, perhaps my handling and storage of the Megaloc (and Spectroline dye) is more to blame for the mess in my truck than the quality of the can. I haven't used any since that bad experience. I try to avoid using grrip dope too, it just seems more messy than the alternatives.

Intplm.

I also don't like that all the manufacturers of all pipe dope have a brush applicator that is to short. To short to reach the bottom of the can. Then you bend it strate and it's still to short. This doesn't make any sense.

GW

I like the consistency of this product. I hate true blue, T plus 2 is good but a little too chunky for my taste buds. Rectorseal5 is used on oil stuff. Don’t think I’ve tried mega lock 

clammy

Over all the years for myself I think I ve used n tried them all ,from the beginning pro dope to grip ,grip lite n now it’s usually mega when on hand or real tough on all screwed water steam gas and for oil it’s usually whitlams line of products or the old standard grip . As for tape I ve been using the grey Teflon for a few years .i find it thicker and tends to not rip or tear as u roll it off plus less wraps usually 1 or 2 max . It’s all about what works for you and what your comfortable and confident with using w the least issues .i really don’t miss trying toget grip or grip lite off of stuff like hands ,clothes and just bout everythingitdrips on or touches .peace n good luck clammy

Robert_25

Grrip is miserable to clean up, but I have never had a fitting leak that was assembled with it.  This week I need to disassemble some fittings that input together 10 years ago with Grrip, so we will see how that goes.

jumper

Robert_25 said:

Grrip is miserable to clean up, but I have never had a fitting leak that was assembled with it.  This week I need to disassemble some fittings that input together 10 years ago with Grrip, so we will see how that goes.

That is real test. Generally sealants don't stop sealing but it is so nice when I can undo decades old joints without a giant wrench.

jumper

Is the dope market so big that all these brands can exist?

SlamDunk

For my gas pipe work, I used tite seal. It is rated for pipe fittings, natural gas, gasoline and oil. Probably not for potable water. Goes on like paste, typically used for engine gaskets.

When I did some minor rework on the gas pipe 25 years later, it was still gummy and pipes twisted apart easily.

Of course, it isnt sold anymore. Might be the label warning: keep away from children and animals. It smelled like it would taste good.

Just checked. Now sold as niel seal. $20/can

Solid_Fuel_Man

Another vote for Gasoila. 

To be honest, I've had excellent luck with just tape on threaded fittings 1.5" and smaller. I've used tape then door for years, but those with tape alone never leak either..... Melrose tape. Blue or gray. 

ChrisJ

Solid_Fuel_Man said:

Another vote for Gasoila. 

To be honest, I've had excellent luck with just tape on threaded fittings 1.5" and smaller. I've used tape then door for years, but those with tape alone never leak either..... Melrose tape. Blue or gray. 

On gas / lpg?

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Robert_25
Grip is good but makes a mess

@intplm, when you run out of brush use an acid brush with a longer handle or what I usually do, when you get as much out of the can with the provided brush as you can you make a "can adjustment" smash the top of the can (with the top removed) with the nearest pipe wrench to shorten the can....now the brush will hit the bottom.

GroundUp

Solid_Fuel_Man said:

Another vote for Gasoila. 

To be honest, I've had excellent luck with just tape on threaded fittings 1.5" and smaller. I've used tape then door for years, but those with tape alone never leak either..... Melrose tape. Blue or gray. 

I've been doing a lot more tape-only joints lately myself with similar results. Except for the last electric radiant boiler panel I assembled in the shop, one of the 2 steel to male copper joints on the boiler leaked and both brass to copper male joints on the manifolds leaked. After they'd been soldered in place. Had to tear it all apart and try again with Loctite 567, held like a rock as always

EdTheHeaterMan

HomerJSmith said:

My idea of a Pipe Dope is, "I cut a pipe three times and it's still too short."

A guy that has a sense of humor. My kind’a dope. Or is it A dope that has a sense of humor. My kind’a guy

Intplm. said:

I also don't like that all the manufacturers of all pipe dope have a brush applicator that is to short. To short to reach the bottom of the can. Then you bend it strate and it's still to short. This doesn't make any sense.

These are multi purpose brushes. Don’t let the name fool you. And they are long enough to get to the bottom of your problems.


I don’t think you are supposed to eat it!

GW said:

I like the consistency of this product. I hate true blue, T plus 2 is good but a little too chunky for my taste buds. Rectorseal5 is used on oil stuff. Don’t think I’ve tried mega lock 

ChrisJ

Well my new can of blue monster isn't off to a good relationship.  The can came dented which seems normal but then the brush broke off while I was stirring it.

ratio

If my experience is any indication, that's normal too.

ChrisJ

ratio said:

If my experience is any indication, that's normal too.

So it's not an indication of a sub par quality but "normal"?   Or normal for blue monster?

Solid_Fuel_Man

My brush usually breaks off about half way through Gasoila too..... 

Honestly, I've had excellent luck with just tape. I've kinda given up on dope, accept for the leakiest looking threads. 3-5 wraps of quality tape has worked very well for me, takes more time than dope though. 

I air test pretty much all heating installs for s minimum of 24 hours prior to flushing/filling. 

ChrisJ

Solid_Fuel_Man said:

My brush usually breaks off about half way through Gasoila too..... 

Honestly, I've had excellent luck with just tape. I've kinda given up on dope, accept for the leakiest looking threads. 3-5 wraps of quality tape has worked very well for me, takes more time than dope though. 

I air test pretty much all heating installs for s minimum of 24 hours prior to flushing/filling. 


That's the thing though, tape seems like it's more work than dope, no?  Maybe I just need practice but I'm much slower at wrapping than doping.

Solid_Fuel_Man

Yes, but tape isnt messy, has worked very well for me (tape alone is better than dope alone) just my experience. 

Frankly, the time really isnt much different. I just hate dopey messes, and leaks more!

ChrisJ

Solid_Fuel_Man said:

Yes, but tape isnt messy, has worked very well for me (tape alone is better than dope alone) just my experience. 

Frankly, the time really isnt much different. I just hate dopey messes, and leaks more!

You get more leaks with dope?

mattmia2

It seems like any brass that I didn't use tape on seeped a little. Maybe the threads cut in brass have just been terrible for the past 20 years or so.