Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

High liquid press/low amps

3T Kenmore (sears) R410 16 SEER central unit, FL 14A, 5 years old
Pressure and amp numbers from Tech (as I remember). I can take temps with IR gun. Ambient temp 80d-60%; condenser temp 80in/110out, lots of air flow; at condenser high side >500psi-82d, low side 110psi-62d; at evap liquid line 85d (both sides of filter/drier), low side 55d sweating; condenser amps are <6A; return air 75d, supply air 60d

Evap coil replaced 3 months ago due to loss of refrigerant. Worked OK until mid-August when a loss of cooling and end to end frozen suction line was observed. Tech recharged using weight and sub-cooling temps (he said, I don't have gauges) and installed UV indicator before a return trip next week. He is concerned the high head pressure indicated a failing compressor. I maintain a failed compressor cannot cool the house with normal values everywhere except a high head pressure and be failed/failing. Does not make sense. Any ideas? Thanks for reviewing.

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,537
    You need to find a competent tech. That one is clueless.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    mattmia2ChrisJSuperTech
  • Banjo_Jim
    Banjo_Jim Member Posts: 6
    I agree he is scratching his head, but how about a hint of what you think is going on. Technically.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,260
    How can you work on anything without gauges?!?!
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Banjo_Jim
    Banjo_Jim Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for that. I am the homeowner trying to resolve the thought the compressor is bad giving you the info I have available.
  • Banjo_Jim
    Banjo_Jim Member Posts: 6
    Ya know, critics are a dime a hundred. Thinkers? Now you got something.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,820
    probably isn't charged properly. possibly noncondensables in the system, possibly something clogged from impropper procedures used to cut and reconnect the lineset. find someone who knows what they are doing
    Banjo_JimSuperTech
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,820
    oh, also possibly the wrong coil or txv or some sort of indoor airflow issue
    Banjo_Jim
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,537
    With almost 50* sub cooling, I'd say it's severely over-charged and/or non-condensibles are in the system.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    SuperTech
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,260
    Ironman said:
    With almost 50* sub cooling, I'd say it's severely over-charged and/or non-condensibles are in the system.

    How did he know what the sub cooling was without gauges?

    Maybe I misunderstood something when I read the original post?


    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,537
    edited August 2020
    He said high side was 500psi, low side 110psi.
    The comment was that the tech had gauges, but not the OP.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    Banjo_Jim
  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,401
    I'm thinking it was never evacuated properly or improperly brazed during the coil replacement.  Non condensibles or plugged TXV are causing high head pressure.  I agree that you need a new tech. At least make sure the condenser coil is clean.  It can't be good for the compressor to run under those conditions.  Sounds like another piss poor 
    Banjo_JimSTEVEusaPA
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,364
    Dump the charge, evacuate and recharge and start over thats the first step
    unclejohnBanjo_Jim
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
    Except of course no one on this site would ever dump the charge. What Ed means is reclaim the refrig. and replace the dryer and pull a deep vacuum and weigh in charge.
    Banjo_Jim
  • Banjo_Jim
    Banjo_Jim Member Posts: 6
    unclejohn said:

    Except of course no one on this site would ever dump the charge. What Ed means is reclaim the refrig. and replace the dryer and pull a deep vacuum and weigh in charge.

    I agree with all who say contaminated refrigerant/non condensables. The position taken by you, Ed and others is what I will bring to my warranty service Tech.
  • Banjo_Jim
    Banjo_Jim Member Posts: 6
    Last question; is there anything in the discussion that would indicate a compressor failure or need to replace the compressor? Based on my available data.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,537
    No, but you're gonna have one if you don't get a competent tech to correct what's wrong.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    ChrisJBanjo_Jimmattmia2pecmsg