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What hardware to mount ceiling flange ?

khkileykhkiley Member Posts: 16
I'm changing over my steam mains from straps to clevis hangers, and I will be using 1/2" ceiling flanges. What hardware is recommended to mount the ceiling flanges into the studs? Looks like you can fit a #16 wood screw, but is that is what is recommended? A google search is not turning up anything. I would have used a lag bolt or some other structural screw but the countersunk hole is throwing me.

Thanks in advance for the advice.



  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,489
    Have you thought about Sammys?
  • GroundUpGroundUp Member Posts: 991
    How much weight will be on each one? What type of material are the joists? Why 1/2"? Generally speaking, a 3/8" plate secured with a couple regular old 1-5/8" drywall screws in a 2x10 pine joist will hold upwards of 250lbs.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 7,091
    Sammys for wood would be the way to go. I would predrill so as to not split the joist.
  • khkileykhkiley Member Posts: 16
    edited July 16
    It’s 2 1/2” main. Thanks everyone. If I can use those deck screws that would be ideal as I have them already.

    I picked 1/2 as that was the recommended size for 2 1/2.

    I learned of Sammy’s after I bought all the other hardware.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 6,971
    edited July 17
    I have used the Sammie "Sidewinders", they go into the side of the joists. Then using 3/8" threaded rod, 2 inches longer than what you think you need, to the clevis, you have a great deal of adjustment to acquire correct slope. And you can do changes in the future if need be.
    Also the longer the hanging rod is the more swing you get so the clevis will not "walk" so much.
    If pipe is parallel to the joists I secure a 2 x 4 between the joists, drill a hole for the 3/8" rod and use fender washers and nuts thru the 2 x 4.

    Often you do not have a lot of height difference from one end of the main to the other and want to adjust a gradual steady slope to drain condensate. Any sags or bumps in the road will give you grief.

    I have redone several 100 year old systems and basically added an extra support between existing points. The pipe gets a belly sag between old supports and will trap water pockets.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,205
    Regular 1 5/8” drywall screws don’t have the shear strength and usually snap in 100 yr old wood.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 7,091
    Yeah, no drywall screws they are brittle. Deck or construction screws are ok
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,205
    Lol, 2 people disagreed with me...
  • pecmsgpecmsg Member Posts: 1,450
    edited July 18
  • pecmsgpecmsg Member Posts: 1,450
  • khkileykhkiley Member Posts: 16
    Agreed about dry wall screws, while sheet rocking my bathroom, they were snapping off in the studs before they were even close to setting. A big pain in the A.

    I ended up using 3” #14 wood screws, they satisfied my craving to always over build things, they also fit nicely in the countersunk (sink?) in the ceiling flange.

    I screwed in a 13” 2x4 between the studs and used pocket screws to anchor them into the stud. This is supposed to hold a thousand pounds so I should be safe there. 😃 Then screwed the flange onto the 2x4 while it was on my work bench.

    The side flanges I purchased from were supposed to be 1/2” but were a 12mm metric thread, which stunk. Is that common? I had to drill it out and use a nut. The rest are going back.

    A question about the cross bolt on the clevis, how tight is it supposed to be? Should I use thread locker on anything?

    Thanks for the suggestions.

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