Question about Insulator plug for 1/2" HEPEX tubing-Under Floor Between Joist Installation

hcpatel78

Hello,
I just finished my Uponor Extruded plate install for the underfloor radiant project. Now it's time to drill joint run pex tubings. I have a few questions about the next step. I kept 18" distance from the end of the joist to the plate.
(1) what are the size of the hole and insulator plug require for 1/2" hep-ex tubes?
(2) How far holes should be with each other. ?
(3) Any particular brand insulator recommendation from pros to reduce the noise of the pipes?
(4) How to manage where I have to run a couple of pipes that needs to be passed through the same joist in the same hole? (My situation is the manifold is one corner so when I run pipes from the manifold to the furthest corner of the room ..after finishing one loop of 300' pipe I have to start with another 300' loop which will use same holes for the joist. So to pass double tubes from the hole and use an insulator (Which size hole and insulator require for two 1/2" tube)

psb75

Drill your holes "big enough". 1" comes to mind for multiple runs of pipe in the hole. You don't need to insulate the holes if one or more runs of tubing goes through it--if it is not restricted.
Keep the tubing 6" away from the rim-joist. Drill holes above the centerline of the joist. Keep the holes below the fasteners for the plywood subfloor.

hcpatel78

I read lots of complaints in this forum about ticking, snaping and crackling noise when system runs. That's why I was asking about the insulator plug.

hot_rod

Drill an 1-1/2” hole, then get some pipe insulation and make a bunch of “donuts” about 2” long to surround the Pex in the hole.
Be sure the plates are sufficiently fastened or they can creak.

Zman

I thought everyone just used these with 1 3/8" holes.https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-558-2-1-2-CTS-EZGlide-Tube-Insulator-Bag-of-50?gclid=CjwKCAjw1cX0BRBmEiwAy9tKHh34-eG9iZPuY8jTVxZsPrnGe25aUqGM8Tk8Cys05gwwL-t0Ai2goRoCPSYQAvD_BwE

As far as the distance between goes, 6" should be plenty.

hcpatel78

Just drill 8 joist. 6" away from end. And 3.5" away from top of the ceiling. I just notice that cracking five joist. It is really happened after drilling. Please see pics.I am really worried now. How should I fix it? Joist size is 2'x10'x 16' long.

Zman

I would not worry a bit. You probably just relieved some stress in the grain. It should be fine.

hcpatel78

Ok . Thank you.Has anyone seen like that kind of crack? I still have to drill another 40 joist. So is anything I can do so it won't happened with those?

psb75

I don't think there is anything to worry about, esp. with the joist hangers being there. Maybe get a new, sharper bit. A self-feeding, Forstner-style is easiest to use.

hcpatel78

I bought self feeding Irvin brand bit from Lowe's for $38.it is frostner style. Thank you for feedback.

psb75

You are good to go.

hot_rod

The ends of the joist near the bearing wall are under a compression load, the crack or hole will not be a problem.

hcpatel78

Rest of the joists are rested on outside concrete block wall(outside perimeter wall). Those needs to be drilled. Please see pics. Can I keep the 10 " distance of my first hole from rim joist?
And second hole will be 6" away from first hole.I will drill this time exact on center of the width of 10" for security.

hot_rod

Here is the explanation and some code verbage.
http://www.scpdc.org/wp-content/uploads/SCPDC-Handout-Drilling-and-Notching-of-wood-members.pdf

Jamie Hall

Properly done -- @hot_rod 's handout is excellent -- the holes shouldn't be a problem. The installation of the joist hangers, about which there is very little you can do, is atrocious. The sheet metal cradle at the bottom of the hanger for the joist should be tight to the bottom of the joist, and at least in the one shown in your picture it isn't -- you are depending entirely on the shear strength of the nails. They'll probably hold...

Zman

I think you have a solid plan.
It looks like the joist were installed when they were a little green. When they dried and shrunk, the top held and the bottom pulled up. The nails in the hangers tried to keep the wood where it was and this caused the crack when you drilled it. Your local lumber yard should have a selection of 1 1/2" wide steel shims. If you squirt a little construction adhesive on the shim and slid it between the bottom of the joist and the hanger, you should be good to go.

psb75

Or....you could pull the nails on the joist hanger and then re-install it...correctly i.e. snug to the bottom of the joist.

Zman

psb75 said:

Or....you could pull the nails on the joist hanger and then re-install it...correctly i.e. snug to the bottom of the joist.

I think the gap is a result of shrinkage. Pulling the nails and reinstalling Will put the nails just above the old holes.

hot_rod

Just get some shim stock and drive it in the gap, if it concerns you. When I was a framer we used shims to make up the tolerance differences as the joist hangers often lap over the top of the joist, no way to lift them

hcpatel78

Thank you very much all ...it's been a great help and information. I feel blessed. May God bless everyone with great health and wealth.....
Thank you,
Hiren Patel