Does my equipment have any value? (I'm switching from oil/hotwater/CIrads to Gas/Forced Air

hutchinsron

Dear all,
First, I don't need to be talked out of my switch. There that is out of the way. Now, is there any value in my old cast iron radiators and 289BTU oil furnace (built-in 2002). I'll have about 16 radiators ranging from 20 sections to 10 sections. I didn't know if there was a market for these types of things.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Ron

pecmsg

almost 300K BTU's?

I hope the replacement is sized properly.

Why the switch if I can ask?

hutchinsron

The current furnace is way oversized for the 2864 sq ft house. Lots of short cycling and is a hog on fuel (currently oil). We are looking for a more efficient system using natural gas which is already in the house. We've recently applied closed cell spray foam to our attic to further enhance our heat retention. We are also adding central AC so adding heat to the mix is a no brainer with the incentives the gas company is going to give us. Our contractor has done a heat loss to size the new system and we have had the contractor do a previous house for us (AC only) so we trust them.

pecmsg

and what size Heat & A/C are they proposing?

pecmsg

Unfortunately a 18 year oil oversized boiler is scrap metal. As far as the cast iron radiators the same unless there real ornate and unique.

lchmb

maybe some pictures of the radiators.. might not be much more value than the weight but may save someone in a good way who needs one badly..

HVACNUT

Give it to the workers. Loading the truck and going to the scrap yard for lunch money would put a smile on their faces. The CI and copper.

GW

Ron I’m not an expert on selling rads, I have 50 or so in storage, but they’re either worth scrap or they may be $100 - $200 for “ desirable” to an end user

Pics are needed if you expect more than scrap value

hutchinsron

Here are some typical photos of the rads. Here is the AC side of things they want to install: Trane Better Systems
2x Trane TEM6 Air Handlers & XR16 Condensers
2x Trane Hydronic Heating Coils
Supply & return ductwork to complete install
Electrical work & permit included

And the boiler to supply hot water to air handlers:
IBC HC Gas Boiler
Domestic Hot Water Tank – IBC 55 Gallon
Two Heating Zones
95% Efficient

This is based on a heat loss they did on the house.

Thanks for all your input.

heathead

Why would one do a boiler and hot water coils in air handlers. If you are going to be uncomfortable by getting rid of steam go with a gas furnace and separate gas water heater unless you need a large amount of domestic hot water. A gas furnace is much more efficient that a gas boiler with forced air coils. Plus much less maintenance. I don't understand the hot water coils with air handlers unless to supplement a radiant heat system. I could be wrong? What am i missing? What don't i see with boiler and air handler with hot water coils.

GW

Those are hot water rads?

Ah yes you said that.

Super bummer to see them get scrapped, but not many people can store them, they’re huge

HVACNUT

How much for the kid?

GW

> @HVACNUT said:
> How much for the kid?

Don’t you have a tool box? Make your own 😆

STEVEusaPA

I assume you’re not selling the kid?
Extra cold (deep freeze) winter, usually brings out the demand for radiators, otherwise if you don’t want to hang onto them, they’re probably scrap.
If you want to keep the rads, and you should, I’d do a mod/con, and a separate AC/heat pump.
But sized to a new heat loss that takes into account the building envelope upgrades.

HVACNUT

Some areas require duct testing on new installations, especially if you pull a permit.

A third party company does the test.

Ask to make sure all ductwork is properly sealed. If not it could come back to bite you in the end.
It should be sealed regardless.

kcopp

Where are you? Someone out here may be able to give them a good home....

hutchinsron

Nope kids staying with me (I deleted the pic) ha. Yes the install includes all permitting and electricity work.
The system will be zoned upstairs and down stairs with an air handler in the basement feeding first floor and a second air ha deer in the walk up attic feeding the 2nd floor.
The hot water radiators keep second floor toasty while first floor is chilled in the winter all one big zone with ecobee3 tstat with 4 sensors taking into account temp differences. It’s by far a perfect system that’s full of comfort. There is a room (kitchen) that have required a space heater in the past.

HVACNUT

Also think about a steam humidifier ducted into the first floor system.
Warm air is a dry heat.

Steamhead

hutchinsron said:

Dear all,
First, I don't need to be talked out of my switch. There that is out of the way.

Actually, @hutchinsron ,you do. You can insulate and air-seal that house all you want, but with forced-air it will never, ever be as comfortable as with radiators.

Too many people have learned this the hard way.

ChrisJ

HVACNUT said:

Also think about a steam humidifier ducted into the first floor system.

Warm air is a dry heat.

All heat is dry heat. When you heat cold air it will become dry by nature, it's how things work. Steam and hot water are no less dry than anything else.

The main thing that contributes to dry heat is a drafty house.

mikeg2015

Forced air can make a drafty house worse with duct leaks and added focused air movement.

Air movement by radiators is large and slow. I’ve had both a radiant is better but it’s not dramatic.

Forced air gets a bad rap in part because it’s usually grossly oversized.


I remember taking out 180k combined in a previous I’d home in owned and installed a 60k 2 stage and 60k modulating. House was stucco and plaster wall construction and tons of windows. Cycled on low stage upstairs and downstairs never fired over about 60% even when -10f and windy.

Switched a 100k 80% with a 45k 2 stage 96% in my last house and it rarely needed high stage in a newer construction 2200sqft in Michigan.


They were much more even feeling afterwards.

HVACNUT

> @ChrisJ said:
> (Quote)
> All heat is dry heat. When you heat cold air it will become dry by nature, it's how things work. Steam and hot water are no less dry than anything else.
>
> The main thing that contributes to dry heat is a drafty house.

Very true. However, even the tightest homes (3 ACPH or less) need to control their interior environment. ERV's, humidification, and dehumidification are necessary.
Right before the **** hit the fan I needed to install 2 steam humidifiers ASAP because the wood floors and molding were shrinking. New construction. All spray foam.